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Phase III 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA Pat Munn and Dave Hough, 7/75 FFA Gary Allan, Tom Schwarm, and Dave Hough
Page Views: 1,056
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Jake Hadden leading the route at a crux section......
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Big, mean, and foreboding--Phase III delivers the goods in one nasty pitch of body-thrutching hatred. Put on your ratty dungarees, tape up, and send.

    Phase III begins to the right of Son of a Mother in the obvious off-width crack, and continues for 90 feet in the same crack. The crux comes--like many routes on this cliff--at about 2/3 height. It involves moving through an overhanging corner sans discernible feet.

    Finish up easier terrain to chain anchors.


    Location 

    The left side of the cliff. At the height of the climbers trail, go left about 100 yards and locate the obvious offwidth of Phase 3.


    Protection 

    A nice size rack with several #2, #3, and #4 Camalots.



    Comments on Phase III Add Comment
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    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    Oct 22, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    This is a really cool route (if you enjoy OW). A little OW technique will keep you from grunting too much.

    By Greg Kuchyt
    Jul 10, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    A rack from .3-#1 C4 size plus double BD 3s and a BD 3.5 worked pretty well for me on this. The second roof and the corner leading up to it is really a 3.5 size crack. 3 is just a little wide and I think a 4 would be hard to fit in. Double 3.5 would have been ideal.

    I feel like it's more a wide-hands to fist crack at the crux than off-width?

    By Chris Duca
    Administrator
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jul 10, 2011

    Greg,

    I agree about it being wide hands rather than off-width. I'm going to be over there a couple days this week, so I'll have to get back on it to see which way I quiver my way up it!

    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jul 12, 2011

    To me, off-width means "larger than fists". If you have small hands, then this qualifies. Otherwise, it's "off-hands", meaning cups or fists. Whatever -- it's splitting hairs. Suffice to say that it's an awkward size and protects well with 3" - 4" cams.

    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Jul 8, 2012

    This climb is a sick exercise of strenuous & insecure lay-backs and fist-jams. No OW section to be found anywhere on it. 3 #4's and 2 #3 camelots help.

    By Daniel Israel
    Oct 21, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

    I found I needed a lot of #3 camalots for the crux section, #4s would immediately get overcammed and there was a jammed #4 camalot. The end didn't protect well after the crux from what I remember, plus being so pumped, it was scary. My fist fit well sideways, thumbs down and twisting. Really cool route, a bit scary had I known I would need to slide my #3 up with me as I climbed :s