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New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) 
No Place for a Gentleman  
No Place For a Lady 
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Pesko Sour 
Phase Dance 
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Spike aka BR 1 
Spinney Dan 
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Turbo Road 
Vail Athletic Club 
You Snooze, You Lose 
Unsorted Routes:

Phase Dance 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Dangle/ Rex Mammelm, Sept., 1992
Page Views: 2,916
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Sep 28, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Upper crux.

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This route tackles the smooth face just left of a major left-facing corner (about 50 yards north of The Apple Bites Back). It's a sustained 5.11 face climb to a killer crux at the top.


10 bolts. It's long, but you only need a 50m to lower.

Photos of Phase Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Mike wishing he had sunglasses for the upper crux.
Mike wishing he had sunglasses for the upper crux.
Basically done.
Basically done.
Not the best clipping holds.
Not the best clipping holds.
About to start the first crux section.
About to start the first crux section.
Midway up the route.
Midway up the route.
Approaching the first (easiest) roof on Phase Dance.
Approaching the first (easiest) roof on Phase Danc...
A tricky section.
A tricky section.
Comments on Phase Dance Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rex Mammel
Mar 30, 2002

Very tough crux bulge to flash.

By Jesse Ryan
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Yes, hard to read. Great line.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This route has 10 bolts on it and the Shelf Road guide states 7 bolts. Luckily for me I was hang-dogging it a bit up top and could back clean a couple of draws for the final two clips. :-) Enjoyable route for sure.

By Osiris Graves
From: Denver,co
Oct 5, 2009

I thought this was a great route very sustained with a nice jug before the crux. Hard to figure out at first but not bad with good beta.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Very tough onsight. Hell, it was hard after I took at the crux, lol. Tricky, but awesome and very unique. Stays with you the whole way.

By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Hitting the crux in sequence is very difficult, a take/fall at bolt eight lets you cheat the beta pretty hard.

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Nov 8, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Right hand cross, trust feet.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Mar 10, 2014

Anchors replaced March 8, 2014. Big thanks to ASCA for the hardware!