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Renaissance Wall
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Pharoah's Child 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: see Gillett's guide
Page Views: 679
Submitted By: Errett Allen on Oct 17, 2004
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Description 

This route lies on the far lower right side of the Renaissance Wall. An obvious narrow ledge runs out to the edge of the wall from the left. The route starts about half way out this ledge. There are several parallel crack and seam systems that diagonal up to the left off this ledge. This route is the most obviously jammable and protectable of these.

Follow the diagonal system for approximately 100 feet to a tree with slings. This is the upper of two trees visible from the ground. The crux comes at about the 70' level just above an obvious off-width section. The climbing is steep and continuous with jamming of all sizes from thin finger to off-width and includes liebacking, sidepulling and stemming off the other parallel systems. A little bit dirty in one section, but overall a very good route. From the tree, rappel 90-95 feet to the ground.


Protection 

Standard rack to 4 inch.



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By Joseffa Meir
Jul 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The route has fun some fun moves, but it's a bit dirty with some suspect rock. It's fairly sustained, and I would recommend being solid on 5.10 due to some tricky gear placements and fall potentials on bad rock.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 5, 2005

Bad rock???

By Mike Carnes
Jun 19, 2007

One of the better pitches of its grade in the Book area. The rock is solid and fine. There is no suspect gear placements, and it is very sustained. I agree be solid at 5.10 and be prepared for everything. Way good route.

By Be Esperanza
From: Asheville, NC
Jun 15, 2009

I really liked this route, but I wouldn't say it's one of the best 5.10 pitches on The Book. The gear was generally good, and got better the higher you climbed. I thought it was solid 5.10, with a variety of climbing styles. I would do this route again.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

As for the first 2 comments here... I believe in July 2005, Joseffa & I took the wrong set of cracks.

By 303scott
Sep 12, 2010

Varied and very Eldo-esque. I would definitely recommend this route. The occasional solid jam, funky laybacks, offwidth, and some thin fingers make this a really fun outing. Pro to 3 inches is sufficient, as the offwidth protects with nuts and small cams in a crack at the back. There is a bolted anchor below the first tree to the left of the route.

By slim
Administrator
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I thought this route was as good as any 10a I've done at Lumpy. The climbing felt pretty sustained on all levels - the difficulty of the climbing, sussing out the gear, and placing enough while not using a piece that might be vital later on. Sometimes the gear options weren't obvious from below and required "investigating upwards". Sometimes the gear needed a bit of tinkering to ensure that it wouldn't get screwed up inadvertently.

The topo that I saw showed a 75' rap, so I was kind of shocked when the route clocked in at about 110' or so.

I'm not sure if I would recommend it for someone breaking into the grade. Maybe if they had a good knack for placing gear, a decently strong head, and a decent level of fitness. It would probably be a pretty rewarding route for them, though.