Phantom Staircase Middle
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Phantom Staircase Middle is a very continuous thin face climb that goes up the middle of the face. Staying clear and just left of the obvious wide crack start adds 15' of additional fun face climbing. Small holds are found all the way up with maybe a crux section just shy of the anchors.
See Phantom Staircase Left for info.
This route can be toproped only from the two bolt anchors. Longer slings are needed to clear the edge.
|Comments on Phantom Staircase Middle
|By Alex Curtis|
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Stay to the left, near and almost over the corner. The phantom left staircase is on the other-side of this corner. It is tough to tell this from guidebooks and drawings, but after climbing this route, it becomes more obvious where the routes must go in order to maintain their appropriate rating. This is a good route to do, if it starts to get too tough, then traverse left where the holds become slightly more positive. If you feel you want more of a challenge, traverse right where the holds begin to become more non-existent.
From: Olympic Valley, CA
Jul 13, 2009
This climb pretty much goes up the middle of the slab, fall line below the TR anchors.
There are 3 or 4 old holes where bolts used to be. If you are passing these, then you are on this route. If you pass an old 1/4" rusty stud sticking out of the wall you are on the 5.8 route to the left.