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Routes in San Rafael Knob
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Karma's Castle in the Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Phantom Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Unknown Fat Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Unknown Skinny Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Frosty Weller, Keen Butterworth: 1992 |
| Page Views: | 944 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | John J. Glime on Mar 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is a beautiful looking tower as seen from I-70. It is also a beautiful looking tower as seen from the south. However, looks can be deceiving, and the western view is not as impressive. However, the climbing is very engaging, the upper section very runout, and by the time you get back to terra firma, you will have a good sense of accomplishment.
Start up a dusty dihedral on the northwest side of the formation. Climb through crumbly rock to a great crack. This leads to the formation's shoulder. Oddly, there is a two bolt, glued-in anchor at this point (with one of the biggest quicklinks I have ever seen.) Climb to the drilled angle above, traverse right to the upper shoulder, and climb unprotected 5.4 to the summit (this is the R section.) A fall at this point would be terrible, the climbing is easy, but the rock is suspect in places. Use your mountaineering judgment and gentle technique on this final section.
Descent: Rap from two drilled angles.
Of note: The summit register had four names in it (two ascents?!) in 15 years. I find this hard to believe, but anyway, after I added my name and comments, as I attempted to screw the lid back in place, it cracked and broke in my hands. I have it now, but will return it either to the summit block or leave it hanging somewhere on the beginning of the route, so that a future ascent party can re-establish it. I will do this the next time I pass that way.
Start up a dusty dihedral on the northwest side of the formation. Climb through crumbly rock to a great crack. This leads to the formation's shoulder. Oddly, there is a two bolt, glued-in anchor at this point (with one of the biggest quicklinks I have ever seen.) Climb to the drilled angle above, traverse right to the upper shoulder, and climb unprotected 5.4 to the summit (this is the R section.) A fall at this point would be terrible, the climbing is easy, but the rock is suspect in places. Use your mountaineering judgment and gentle technique on this final section.
Descent: Rap from two drilled angles.
Of note: The summit register had four names in it (two ascents?!) in 15 years. I find this hard to believe, but anyway, after I added my name and comments, as I attempted to screw the lid back in place, it cracked and broke in my hands. I have it now, but will return it either to the summit block or leave it hanging somewhere on the beginning of the route, so that a future ascent party can re-establish it. I will do this the next time I pass that way.
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