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McInnis Canyons
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Cowboy Hat, The 
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Phantom Spire 


Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus: C1+ [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 1,436
Submitted By: Troy from Tooele on Oct 6, 2002

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Looking down from middle of bolt ladder.


This route is located up Devils Canyon. See Bjorstads book DESRT ROCK III (page 254) for the location. If you are broke, just go into a climbing shop with a pencil and paper and dictate it down out of the book. If you hike up the canyon, you'll see a thumb-like spire on the left (east) in about 40-45 minutes. There is no way to mistake this spire, as it is the only one on the left (east) side. Do NOT hump pitons up there, like the book says. I got throught the crux with medium nuts and cams. Approach the route, by hiking south then climbing up slabs, then heading back north to the saddle between the spire and the rimrock. Start on the left-most of cracks. This is the only clean dihedral there (look for scrape marks from gear). The anchor is actuall 15' below the summit. You can climb up to the summit, then "hand-over-hand rappel back to the drilled anchor via a slung hueco. You will see the faded webbing near the summit. Fun route. Check out Kit Carsons name inscribed in the saddle near the start of the climb. DO NOT BRING PITONS, save your back for more worthy sherpa outings.-tda


Cams from blue Metolius to 3" friends. Many quickdraws/biners. A knife and some chain for the anchor.

Photos of Phantom Spire Slideshow Add Photo
The whole route can be seen. Look for a shiny bolt...
BETA PHOTO: The whole route can be seen. Look for a shiny bolt...
The view up canyon from the route.  A few more tow...
The view up canyon from the route. A few more tow...
Phantom Spire from approach trail.
BETA PHOTO: Phantom Spire from approach trail.

Comments on Phantom Spire Add Comment
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By rmaultsby
From: grand junction, co
Oct 30, 2011

Really. If you climb this, bring a knife and maybe a new bolt for the anchor.
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Sep 27, 2015

I agree with a new bolt. several cracks around the right piton and it is located above an exfoliating shelf. The slung hueco was almost better in my opinion! I backed up the anchor with a piece from the bolt ladder when going for the summit moves, which are a bit spicy. Blake freed to about 80 feet until the holds disappeared. Fun tower!!
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