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Phantom Rock
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Scorpion Exile 
South Face 

Phantom Rock 


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Lat, Long: 34.4787, -119.6821 Map
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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Mar 31, 2011

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Rob Beno leading Scorpion Exile

Description 

A small formation that sits to the northwest and slightly downhill from the Lower Gibraltar (Lieback Annie/Rapture) area. Some fun moderate topropes and harder leads can be found here, and all routes can be easily toproped. Two sets of bolted anchors atop the formation.


Getting There 

Park at the next major turnout uphill from the parking area for Lower Gibraltar. Hike down the ridge to the west and cut left when the ridgeline ends. A short scramble through loose dirt and brush gets you to the backside of Phantom Rock. Get to the base via one of two ways: rap in from the top, or scramble down right around the base towards a large oak tree. The striking dihedral near the oak tree is Scorpion Exile (5.10a).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Phantom Rock:
Scorpion Exile   5.10a PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
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Featured Route For Phantom Rock
Rob Beno leading Scorpion Exile

Scorpion Exile 5.10a PG13  CA : Central Coast : ... : Phantom Rock
Near the large oak tree at the base of Phantom Rock, climb up a left facing dihedral past a bolt. A large roof caps this dihedral. Traverse out left of the roof following a short horizontal finger/tips crack. Additional pro can be placed here, though the climbing is not too difficult. If you blow it, however, you will ground. A number 0 or 1 tcu (or small/med nut) fits nicely here. Up onto a small ledge, clip the next bolt, and step left around the arete onto the face. Above this, climb the u...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA