In the center/left area of the Basement, locate a dihedral with five roofs that goes all the way to the grassy ledge above. Start up rampy rock and trend left towards the first roof. Here, you can go left (sparse pro, big pull) or right along the bolt line for some fun laybacking and jamming (better pro). If you go right, the rope can get stuck in the crack and cause rope drag. Step left atop this huge flake into the finger crack dihedral. Move up into the biggest roof, long runners on your pro, gently smear right, and turn the corner. Step right around another roof, then establish yourself below the crux. Tiny feet get you a couple of high jugs, but you have to get your feet up above the roof to reach the horizontal. Shimmy into the tight dihedral and up to the top. Rappel from the anchors of HCQ or continue all the way to the top and belay on gear. Walk off left (south) to the Backdoor descent trail.
Stays wet for a few days after a hard rain.
Between High Class Quickdraw and the huge roof right of Everybody's Welfare
Lead: Gear to 4"
Anchor: 2 SS GI bolts or gear (topout)
|Comments on Phantom Fright
Oct 28, 2013
Led w/Kaiven when I had no business at all climbing on gear.
The corner eats passive pro and the twin roofs took twos and threes nicely. You can get some funky passive placements in the horizontals trending left. The business was in the initial corner, but the fun was traversing under the roofs on hilariously inept placements. Probably something in the five-singledigit range.