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Unsorted Routes:

Phantom Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,599
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Divesh Bhatt leads Phantom Crack.

Description 

One of the classics of the area, and the back cover of Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Ed. Climb a somewhat chossy slab (5.6) with limited protection to a small ledge with a hand crack in it. Jam the crack to the top (5.9). Some people do this as one pitch or set up a belay at the ledge below the hand crack. You can easily rap in with a single 60m rope, not sure about 50m.
  • RCM&W #42, p.214.

Location 

Phantom crack lies about 10 yards north of a rock retaining wall overlook in a corner. The crack is clearly visible from further down the cliff, making it quite photogenic.

Protection 

Nuts and small cams for the bottom. Hand sized hexes and cams for the top. For the top rope setup I found a large cam (fist sized), nuts and tri-cams are helpful.


Photos of Phantom Crack Slideshow Add Photo
me leading phantom. <br />Photo: Taylor Krosbakken <br />
me leading phantom.
Photo: Taylor Krosbakken
Mat Sahli Leading Phantom Crack
Mat Sahli Leading Phantom Crack
Derek Jamming up the top of Phantom Crack
Derek Jamming up the top of Phantom Crack
Mark Bratlie on the ledge between the 5.6 lower section & the 5.9 crack w/ Laura Machacek belaying. <br />Photo by: Matt Johnson
BETA PHOTO: Mark Bratlie on the ledge between the 5.6 lower se...
Second in sequence of unknown climber
Second in sequence of unknown climber
Final shot of unknown climber
Final shot of unknown climber
Andrea up in the crux crack.
Andrea up in the crux crack.
Climber in yellow on Hidden Treasure, climber in purple on Phatom Crack, and climber in green on Bluebells
BETA PHOTO: Climber in yellow on Hidden Treasure, climber in p...
me leading phantom in 2008
me leading phantom in 2008
Unknown climber on Phantom
Unknown climber on Phantom
Anna jams Phantom crack.
Anna jams Phantom crack.
andrew seconding phantom <br />Photo: Taylor Krosbakken
andrew seconding phantom
Photo: Taylor Krosbakken
laybacking on up Phantom
laybacking on up Phantom

Comments on Phantom Crack Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Unfortunately the good part of this climb is only abut 10 meters long. If it were longer, it would be a truly awesome route. This, Superior and Quettico make a nice afternoon round-up.
By Scott Schumann
From: SLC, UT
Nov 29, 2012

Sandbag 5.9. Cruxy move down low to get in the to good hands up above. Yet another must do classic on the Shore.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 30, 2013

A must do. A good lead or easily toproped. One short crux section but it's all there for the patient climber.