One of the classics of the area, and the back cover of Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Ed. Climb a somewhat chossy slab (5.6) with limited protection to a small ledge with a hand crack in it. Jam the crack to the top (5.9). Some people do this as one pitch or set up a belay at the ledge below the hand crack. You can easily rap in with a single 60m rope, not sure about 50m.
Phantom crack lies about 10 yards north of a rock retaining wall overlook in a corner. The crack is clearly visible from further down the cliff, making it quite photogenic.
Nuts and small cams for the bottom. Hand sized hexes and cams for the top. For the top rope setup I found a large cam (fist sized), nuts and tri-cams are helpful.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Unfortunately the good part of this climb is only abut 10 meters long. If it were longer, it would be a truly awesome route. This, Superior and Quettico make a nice afternoon round-up.
|By Scott Schumann|
From: SLC, UT
Nov 29, 2012
Sandbag 5.9. Cruxy move down low to get in the to good hands up above. Yet another must do classic on the Shore.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 30, 2013
A must do. A good lead or easily toproped. One short crux section but it's all there for the patient climber.