Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Red Wall
Select Route:
A Stroke of Brilliance 
Amphetamine Grip 
Animal Farm 
Bay of Pigs 
Bill's Flake 
Breakdown in Paradise 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) 
Commie Pinkos 
Dances with Clams 
Dirty Pinkos 
Finger Puppet 
Fingers of Fate 
Flex 
Gulag Archipelago 
Lets Face It 
Moscow 
Orgasmophoria 
Papillion 
Peking 
Phantasmagoria 
Pop Art 
Ride The Lightning 
Sole Survivor 
Straight Outta' Peking 
Super Slab 

Phantasmagoria 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Olsen, Colley, 1989
Season: Shade in afternoon.
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: ferrells on Jun 25, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Long, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts. By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith. For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem.

Again, as long as you are doing this one, you should finish with the Orgasmaphoria pitch above. It turns a good one-pitch route into a special two pitch route.


Location 

Start as for Finger Puppet, a goofy little 5.10a on left side of Red Wall, but head right at the third bolt or so. Finger Puppet, and this route, start on top of a ledge gained by doing a 3-4 meter 5.6 corner with multiple cracks. Thirty or forty feet left of Dances With Clams.

If you do this pitch alone, I bet you could rap with a 60m, but I'm not sure. Sorry. If someone knows, would you comment below?

Because we linked this with Orgasmaphoria, we brought shoes to walk off down Misery Ridge: Above the anchors, drop down to a little gully; climb the greasy 5.7 crack (some people actually lead this with gear - set of nuts); gain the ridge, and hike down. Alternatively, you can rappel Super Slab.

Don't try to rappel this route.


Protection 

Ten bolts or so with bolt anchors.



Comments on Phantasmagoria Add Comment
Show which comments
By stj
May 2, 2011

I like technical Smith edges, so I think this first pitch is higher quality than Orgasmaphoria (the second pitch, which is cool and long but less sustained). You can rap off the first pitch with a 60m rope to the grassy starting ledge, or 70m puts you on the ground.

By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
May 31, 2011

I disagree that there are fifty other climbs with the same moves at Smith. Just the type of rock alone, makes it quite unique. Beautiful climb. But yes, if you can, go for the second pitch as well.

By hotlum
From: Roseburg, OR
Oct 22, 2011

Really good. Use slings on third and fourth bolts to reduce drag for the hard move up top.

By Heather V.
Jan 30, 2012

I managed a rap off a 60m. It was close, but with rope stretch you can make it to the bottom.

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The "walk-off" is sh!t... unprotected, with certain horrendous injury in case of a slip. To put it in perspective, it's a right hand jam/lay back, with a really high left foot over a 20-foot ramp leading down into a precipitous gully that ends 200 feet below. Rap Super Slab: two ropes, or 70m and downclimb.

This single pitch is great, but would agree that there are a million other climbs like it. Fun, sustained, high quality.

The approach is simple and straightforward. Definitely not 5.6; more like 5.2.