Long, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts. By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith. For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem.
Again, as long as you are doing this one, you should finish with the Orgasmaphoria pitch above. It turns a good one-pitch route into a special two pitch route.
Start as for Finger Puppet, a goofy little 5.10a on left side of Red Wall, but head right at the third bolt or so. Finger Puppet, and this route, start on top of a ledge gained by doing a 3-4 meter 5.6 corner with multiple cracks. Thirty or forty feet left of Dances With Clams.
If you do this pitch alone, I bet you could rap with a 60m, but I'm not sure. Sorry. If someone knows, would you comment below?
Because we linked this with Orgasmaphoria, we brought shoes to walk off down Misery Ridge: Above the anchors, drop down to a little gully; climb the greasy 5.7 crack (some people actually lead this with gear - set of nuts); gain the ridge, and hike down. Alternatively, you can rappel Super Slab.
Don't try to rappel this route.
Ten bolts or so with bolt anchors.
|Comments on Phantasmagoria
May 2, 2011
I like technical Smith edges, so I think this first pitch is higher quality than Orgasmaphoria (the second pitch, which is cool and long but less sustained). You can rap off the first pitch with a 60m rope to the grassy starting ledge, or 70m puts you on the ground.
From: Bend, Or.
May 31, 2011
I disagree that there are fifty other climbs with the same moves at Smith. Just the type of rock alone, makes it quite unique. Beautiful climb. But yes, if you can, go for the second pitch as well.
From: Roseburg, OR
Oct 22, 2011
Really good. Use slings on third and fourth bolts to reduce drag for the hard move up top.
|By Heather V.|
Jan 30, 2012
I managed a rap off a 60m. It was close, but with rope stretch you can make it to the bottom.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The "walk-off" is sh!t... unprotected, with certain horrendous injury in case of a slip. To put it in perspective, it's a right hand jam/lay back, with a really high left foot over a 20-foot ramp leading down into a precipitous gully that ends 200 feet below. Rap Super Slab: two ropes, or 70m and downclimb.
This single pitch is great, but would agree that there are a million other climbs like it. Fun, sustained, high quality.
The approach is simple and straightforward. Definitely not 5.6; more like 5.2.