Phantasia  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula - 1990 Submitted By:  LeeAB on Jan 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Entering the business on the stellar Phantasia.

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Description 

Climb the technical slab maybe 5.12- up to the roof. After a few moves out the roof you will encounter a sequence on badly sloping pinches that requires good body tension to climb through. After this the rest of the route is easier to the anchors. If you can convince someone to TR it to clean that would be in your best interests as cleaning while lowering is a pain.

Location 

The right hand route out the huge roof towards the right side of the main crag. Just right of Twinkie.

Protection 

Bolts and bolted anchor.

Photos of Phantasia Slideshow

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Katie Brown on the severe overhang, photo: Bob Hor...	Katie Brown on the sheer slab portion, photo: Bob ...	Zeb heading toward the chains for an onsight...
Zeb on the slabish start...	It really is that steep. Finishing up the crux se...