Another Classic needles spire. It would be climbed more if people knew how to get to it.
Getting There
The Phallus is on the Northeast and downhill side of Picture rock. It is basically right behind (east) picture rock. You can either walk up hill from the Catherderal Spires parking lot or descend from the top from picture rock. The classic route starts on the North side just below picture rock at the obvious crack system.
Climb chimney farthest from Cathedral Spires parking lot (could get a #4 or 5?) up left to big flakes/horns, belay there, then down and left to seam/crack protected with nuts and pins, then up to summit. One rope descent. There is a bolt on this one and rappel anchors. Very fun.
Yet another gem of a Bob Kamps route. I remember being gripped and I clipped the bolt, which I now understand to be a retro job.
Rich, do you happen to know if there is any truth to the the guidebook anecdote about the FA? Apparently Kamps didn't like the rap bolt that was drilled so they used Lauria as a counterweight backup (webbing around his wrists?) for the first 3 rappels. Must have drawn the short straw.
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