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Redgarden - Tower One
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Phallus In Suck-It-Land 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 320', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Ken Brink 1986
Page Views: 1,133
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 10, 2002
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Roof on pitch 1.
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  • Description 

    Phallus in Suck-It-Land is a good route with a great name!Start from the Upper Ramp as you would for Alice in Bucket Land, on the right side of the large cave that is just left of the start for Upper Ruper. This route doesn't see much traffic but has good moves and wild exposure, expect some pretty spicy runouts on lichen covered rock. The holds stay juggy most of the way but be careful what you yard on.

    Pitch 1: 120 feet 5.8 SFollow the first pitch of Alice. From the right side of the cave move up and right through the roof to big holds on the face then angle up and left through the hueco covered face to a double piton anchor below an arching roof. You may also start with Upper Ruper and climb the first 15 feet of that route, clip a piton and cut hard left 5.8vs.

    Pitch 2: 100 feet 5.8 SMove left from the belay and turn the roof at an obvious weakness (5.8 S). After the roof head straight up the face following the path of least resistance and pass through two roofs (both 5.8) until you reach a decent ledge to belay. The exact line, grade and protection on this pitch probably vary a bit for each climber, there are many options, choose what looks best for you keeping the small tree near the top of the face in your sights as a landmark and savor the exposure.

    Pitch 3: 90 feet 5.4Can be combined with pitch 2. Follow jugs up to the saddle where Upper Ruper ends.

    ............................................................


    Protection 

    The standard stuff will do but if you want to avoid runouts as much as possible bring some bigger stuff to put in the huecos, maybe large tri-cams.



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    By tooTALLtim
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 8, 2009

    Wow, talk about adventure climbing, I was either off-route soon after pulling the first roof, or no one's been up there for a while...great if you like feeling like you're doing an FA and eating lichen. BUT a lot of the moves were good, and you get to wander all over that face with great exposure. I wouldn't recommend it, but I'd do it again.

    By Gregger Man
    May 16, 2010

    Climbed this without checking the topo or description. Went left far enough to clip the one bolt belay ledge that's part of upper Grand Giraffe. That's a fun dihedral. I worked back right from there and rejoined the route to run it to the top. More fun than P2 of Alice, IMHO. [take a 60m or 70m rope]