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 ADVANCED
(05) Health Wall
Routes Sorted
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Inner Sanctum 
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May Cause Health Problems 
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Not Suitable for Pregnant Women 
Phalanx 
Piled High 
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Smegma Deluxe 
STD 
Tres Amigos 
Upchuck 
Why Crack 

Phalanx 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
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Description 

Possibly the best trad line at Mentmore, Phalanx is the obvious, eye-catching splitter at the far right (east) end of the Health Wall. While face holds are available, knowing how to finger jam will really help you out on this one. Be careful though, some of us with mid-sized fingers need to resort to ringlocks... The crack takes good pro, and the fall is generally clean, so this is a good climb to push your leading grade on. Also easy to toprope, and excellent for practicing technique. If only it was longer...


Location 

The clean, splitter finger crack right between the obvious "Why Crack" and the equally obvious big overhang, down near the right end of the Health Wall. Rap or lower off, or walk off to the right.


Protection 

Trad gear to a 2-bolt anchor. The crack is small, so bring medium nuts and small cams to about 1 inch.



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