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Sun Towers
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Phaethon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Skyeler Congdon- onsight solo
New Route: Yes
Season: afternoon sun
Page Views: 965
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 7, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: A view of the start (big corner) as seen from the ...

Description 

"Suppose I give you the chariot: what will you do? Will you be able to confront the whirling poles, and prevent the reeling vault of heaven from sweeping you away?" - Ovid

P1: Climb the obvious, R-facing corner to a ledge (5.7). On the FA, I actually climbed 10 or so feet to the right of the corner for the first 30 feet before getting into the corner (no pro). Optional belay at ledge or continue up short chimney to 5.5 R face or right to a crack aiming for large roof.

P2 Climb up black rock in corner up to roof on jugs. Pull roof on the left (5.8) into thin hands and fingers. Follow striking twin cracks, "The Chariot Tracks," across the blank face, left for 40 feet then straight up to nice ledge. Belay.

Climb 50 feet of 4th class to top.


Location 

West Face of Upper Sun Tower. Hike 100 yards NW beyond the notch and look for obvious black and tan corner. Can't miss it. The Chariot Tracks cannot be seen from the base of the route as they face due North.

Walk off to the North, then West back to your packs. Stay close to cliff once down for easiest path of descent.


Protection 

Standard rack. Bring a wire brush to clean lichen out of second pitch twin cracks.



Photos of Phaethon Slideshow Add Photo
A view of the second pitch roof and twin cracks as seen from the walkoff.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the second pitch roof and twin cracks as...
Comments on Phaethon Add Comment
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By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Feb 21, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route. Once it is used some more/cleaned up a bit, it will be really nice. Once reaching the top of the large, right-facing corner on pitch one, the beginning of the second pitch is not so obvious. The route moves up and slightly left. Once up a little higher, the large roof/alcove with black rock is obvious (pitch two). We belayed at a ledge below a small wall just below the roof.