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Peyote Power 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Shade all day
Page Views: 2,128
Submitted By: meo on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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A good climb. There's the Jonny on Peyote Power.

...

Description 

We did only three pitches so feel free to add on. All three pitches we're very long. I would recommend a 70 m rope for leading. If you use a 60 you will need every inch to reach the belays especially on pitch 2 and 3. Pitch 2 is quite good and protects well enough. Pitch 3 wanders up a beautiful black varnish face. Protection not obvious. Had to sling some horns for lack of anything else. Super long pitch.
Take 2 ropes to rappel all stations are bolted.


Location 

Pine Creek Canyon 100 ft. right of Dark Shadows. Begin on a large ledge.


Protection 

Standard rack to a # 3 Camelot. Placed many wired nuts. Bring many runners for long pitches.



Photos of Peyote Power Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 2 of peyote power
pitch 2 of peyote power
Coming up pitch 2
Coming up pitch 2
Looking up pitch 1. Pass roof on the right go past first set of bolts heading left to bolted anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 1. Pass roof on the right go past...
Looking up pitch 3
Looking up pitch 3
Pitch 3 follows the middle of the dark varnish.
Pitch 3 follows the middle of the dark varnish. ...
looking up pitch 2
looking up pitch 2
Climbing partner since 1989, clay volmer
Climbing partner since 1989, clay volmer
Comments on Peyote Power Add Comment
Show which comments
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would disagree with the 5.9 rating. Although pitches are long, there is adequate pro and hardest moves on the climb are 5.8, unless you are off route. Traversing right from the top of pitch 1 there is an easy ledge system that angles right. Follow this straight up to the top of pitch 2. If you don't go far enough to the right, the moves are closer to 5.9-5.10. Pitch 3 is the money pitch. The route supposedly goes on for two or more pitches per the FA leader.

It is possible to do another pitch or two going left from the top of pitch 3, but there are no bolted stations above.

Beware on the descent; ropes seem to catch on this route. Suggested tie off for two ropes EDK, which allows the knot to ride up.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 20, 2009

There's a lot of good climbing on this route; Pitches 2 and 3 are outstanding. A 70 meter rope is not necessary. Pitch 2 uses all of a 60 meter and pitch 3 all but about 5 ft. All the other pitches are shorter. Careful pro placements and long slings will allow a 60 meter rope to make it and will also help minimize rope drag. Pro on pitch 3 was adequate at the crux, a short steep section fairly rated at 5.9. The first four pitches have bolted anchors.

A question for those who have climbed the fifth pitch - The guide book says: Face climb right, past a bolt, to a trough/crack which is followed past a roof to an anchor at the base of a rounded white rib. We went out right from the belay at the top of pitch 4 but never saw a bolt, or a trough/crack. There was a crack through a roof (more of a bulge), but no rounded white rib and no anchor to be found.

The rest of the route description (Handren Guide) was right on. Can anyone help us solve this mystery?

By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Oct 10, 2010

Came up a litte short on pitch 2 using a 60 meter, had to simul climb.

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This route is very good and certainly worthy of more attention. The description for pitch 5 is confusing and we also screwed up and missed the bolt on this pitch. I scoped it out on rappel and the description should read:

"P4 ends at a bolted anchor just right of a chimney. Climb out right from the belay to avoid some steeper rock, but then slant up left, aiming for the crack/groove that is the continuation of the chimney. A bolt is found just before re-entering the crack system."

Also, the bolted stations are placed to allow full-length rappels, but more comfortable belays can be arranged on ledges. Here's my recommendation.

P1a (90 ft): Climb seams to the right side of a roof and belay at a bolted anchor on a nice ledge.

P1b (120 ft): Move left to a R-facing corner and then climb right slanting cracks to a bolted anchor. Pass this anchor and climb 15 ft more to a ledge/scoop and belay from gear.

P2 (190 ft): Move to the right side of the ledge/scoop and climb a short R-facing flake to a thin crack that leads up a slab. Move slightly right to an obvious L-facing flake and follow this to bolts on the left. Skip these bolts and climb the steep face directly right of the anchors for 15 ft, then up a low angle corner that slants up right to a very comfortable ledge.

P3 (180 ft): Traverse back left from the nice belay ledge and start up the steep varnished face of the crux pitch. Follow the path of least resistance, moving L and R as needed and reach a bolted anchor when the angle eases.

P4 (170 ft): Climb straight up the face, passing a bolt that protects a cruxy slab move, to reach a bolted anchor just right of a chimney.

P5 (150 ft): See description/clarification above.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 16, 2011

Tom - Thank you! Two years later, mystery solved! We obviously stayed too far right on pitch five.
The suggestions on changing belay locations sound good. It would also help make pitch two less of a rope stretcher.