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 ADVANCED
Gill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cleveland Route TR 
Acid Rock TR 
Blood Alcohol TR 
Boy Scout T,TR 
Fantasy TR 
Gill's Cheek T,TR 
Gill's Crack T,TR 
Gill's Nose TR 
Ice TR 
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 
Peyote Blues TR 
Psilocybin TR 
Slut For Punishment TR 
Spine, The T,TR 
Twin Cracks T 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 

Peyote Blues 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Rich Bechler and Dave Groth,1985 or 86. First Lead: Jason Huston, 2006
Page Views: 1,549
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Pete Cleveland attempting Peyote Blues, 1982

Description 

Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds.


Protection 

Toprope



Photos of Peyote Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Gill's Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Gill's Buttress
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002

first top-roped by Rich Bechler and Dave Groth ,1985 or 86

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2003

Another good way to approach this route is to traverse in from Gill's Nose with your hands about the level of Peter's feet in the photo. Personally, I never had the guns left to finish the route after the Nose start. ABQ.

By SteveSchultz
Jan 23, 2007

since jason is too modest to put it in himself: first known lead, Jason Huston, late december 2006/early january 2007.

how did he describe it??? "Frightening"

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jan 29, 2007

Jason, Another impressive send.What in the hell did ya get fer gear?or was there any? Congrats on a fine lead. Steve S. PEACE AND FUK-NES

By SteveSchultz
Jan 31, 2007

jason, you're such a featherbagger.

steve

By Alex A
Aug 9, 2007

As I remember when Rich Bechler did the FA of the route the left corner was off and it was 5.13, then using the left corner become the standard route, I think Eric Z, did it bare foot, he was getting bored climbing in shoes, doing a lot of the 5.12's and at least one 13 bare foot,