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Petzl Quarks or Nomics?
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By T340
Mar 24, 2013

I am interested in getting my own ice tools for the next alpine and ice climbing seasons and I have narrowed it down to the Quark and Nomic.
I am a relatively new climber, and am hoping to make these tools go a 'long way' so to speak.
I am going to be using them for fairly moderate WI and some alpine climbing in the US as well as the Alps.

Any help is appreciated!


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By Dobson
From Butte, MT
Mar 24, 2013

Neither tool is superior to the other. It depends on your climbing preference. Do you like having the opportunity to match easily, or do you prefer being able to plunge and slam in pins?

I currently climb on Vipers that are more similar to the Quarks, and I don't regret it a bit. That said, if I had to choose either for an entire season, I'd snag a set of Nomics. They make hard drytooling much easier and I think I'd enjoy working around their alpine limitations.

Phillip


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By Todd Cook
From Hawthorne, CA
Mar 24, 2013
me in Africa

The quarks have an adjustable trigger finger, and overall the grips are much more plain; which ostensibly translates into being able to use them with expedition weight gloves, frequently switching to use them often as canes, in traveling over a lot of horizontal snow and ice. Whereas the nomics have a very tight handle, a snug fit that precludes the use of bulky gloves.

Surprisingly, the nomics and the quarks have the exact same overall geometry/angle. It's not apparent from any of the marketing copy or images, but I've compared them side by side in Ouray Mountain sports. I was surprised. The only real difference is in the grips.


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By T340
Mar 24, 2013

Phillip and Todd,
Thanks for the information.
I do like the idea of having grips that will accommodate a larger glove for colder conditions and such.
As to the similarity between the two, I hadn't noticed, Todd. But looking at them 'side by side' again, I think I see what you are saying.


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By doligo
Mar 24, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

Nomics have adjustable pinky rests too. Not as convenient to adjust in the field, but you can switch them easily prior to the climb depending on the temps or the objective...


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Mar 24, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

if youre just going to be doing easy WI and alpine climbs you dont need nomics. Quarks will be your ticket.

Also having owned both quarks and nomics id have to disagree with todd's opinin.

Just some insight on uarks from my own personal opinion..the adjustable pinks rest is a piece of crap. Ive broken 1, my buddies broken 2, if they get wet theyll freeze and cant be adjusted. Before I got rid of my quarks (i switched to nomics,but ive been doing a lot more steep ice and mixed) i removed the adjustable tripped and just screwed the rest into place for matching purposes.

The quark is great for moderate ice and mountainerring. If you wanna get more serious into mixed streep ice, and real technical alpine routes, go with the nomic.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Mar 25, 2013

I too own both. Starting out, Quarks are definitely more versatile, especially in the alpine environment. Also, with my big paws, I have trouble with anything but thin gloves on my Nomics. Yeah, it's tough to plunge the tools using Nomics.


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By T340
Mar 25, 2013

Superkick and Leo,
Thanks for the information-I am aware of the problems with the grip 'adjusters' on the latest Quark. I think, after some thought, I am going to go with the Quarks.

Appreciate everyone's input.


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