Petzl Lynx and Baruntses

Does anybody have a this crampon and boot combination? I have a size 43 Baruntse and the Lynx, and im having trouble getting the PERFECT fit. They fit relatively well/tight but I am a new at ice climber and was wondering if anybody else was running this setup and had any suggestions for a perfect fit.

Is it normal to bend the metal of the toe bail to better fit to the boot?

Hi CurlyFry,

My reply is directed only to your last question. I would not use the word "normal" in this context. But I think it is common for dedicated ice climbers to modify their gear and that includes their crampons. Speaking only for myself I tend to be on the lookout for old pairs of crampons at places like Switching Places in Canmore and if the price is right I buy the crampons only for the spare parts and choices it gives me. So I have a few old pairs I have parted out. What I do is mix and match among manufacturers to get what I think is optimal for me. For example my current favorite pair of technical ice crampons are BD rails from the late 1990s, matched with a base plate from the mid-2000s, together with front and back bails with straps from some Rambo Comps--fits my boots and my technique well. I should also say I milled down some of the parts and purchased some non standard nuts and bolts and washers for some things I wanted to try. My current second favorite pair of crampons is a similar mix of parts from different manufacturers together with some welding. On several occasions I have used a press to shape the bails to what I wanted.
Never in over 40 years of climbing have I had a part failure or crampon failure. In fact, due to my willingness to re-invent, I have had some good positive results for me. All the people I know who are dedicated ice climbers have modified their gear through grinding, welding, drilling, cutting, filing, etc. They all seem pretty safe and smart to me. I think this sort of creativity and confidence is commonplace among the dedicated who seek to get the most out of their equipment and recognize that manufacturers build for a mass consumer base--so design compromises are expected.
So to summarize--I cannot tell you what to do about your bails, but you would not be a "lone wolf" if you did some modifying to enhance the boot-bail interface. Good luck.

Cheers and safe climbing,

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

I have access to a gear locker for an outing club I am part of, so I will try on front bails from various brands to see which ones fit the baruntses toe welt best. I also realized if I could get a length of metal that the to bails are made out of I could shape a toe bail to my boot, a custom toe bail if you will, just like you mentioned with using a press.

The reason I posted this thread was just to see if any other ice climbers are using the same boot/crampon combo that I am, and to see what they've done if anything to get a better fit.

I too have took consumer items and customized them to better suit my needs, but it has always been with a needle and thread.

Thanks for the response, and the info.

Hi CurlyFry,

Happy to help. There are also climbers with machine shop businesses who can do things for you that you might not feel comfortable doing yourself. For instance, Dane Burns has a machine shop business in Issaquah, Washington, and he does custom work for climbers all over the world. As a very solid and competent climber himself, he knows the performance issues well. His reputation doing custom work to a high standard is solid and world-wide. But there are others as well. I know there is at least one similar in Colorado.

Cheers,

Bob