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Petzl Attache, Metolius Element, or WC Synergy?

Original Post
jackhmullen · · Oceanside CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

My belay carabiner has gotten a bit too sketch and I've decided that it's high time to get a new one, I've been looking at these three mainly but any other recommendations would be cool too. (I'm primarily doing single pitch trad with the occasional multipitch.)

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

Get a Petzl William ball locker. I've had several of these one for about 5 years used for belay,rap,and anchors. It shows no noticeable wear besides scratches. Plus it will piss your brother off. He hates them. It will also keep him from using your shit!

jackhmullen · · Oceanside CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Hahaha I do quite enjoy the prospect of pissing off my brother but like him I'm not a fan of autolockers, I prefer the classic screw.

jackhmullen · · Oceanside CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

But that still leaves the option of the William screw lock.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Petzl Attache is hard to beat, lasts forever, and isn't one of those piece of crap autolocks.

Just got the Metolius Element: it's much the same, a bit smaller. Screw action is a bit better on the Petzl,

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

I find the people who don't like auto lockers, don't use them that often. I started my climbing career using them so I'm able to open them without thinking. It just takes practice like anything. The weight difference with similar shaped lockers is generally not much, the trade off is peace of mind. Though I do have a bunch of the BD screw lockers for ice and when I'm concerned about going light, but they do wear out quickly. The cheap cost lets them be easily left behind as bailers. What ever you do, DON'T BUY THE BD GRIDLOCK!

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Attache is hard to beat, I use one exclusively as my belay/rap biner. I also have a similar size and shape Trango that works nicely but is not a key lock. All that said, I have been considering getting a couple WC Synergy Lite - slightly smaller than the standard Synergy, lighter, but a real nice shape and still full circular profile where it counts. I think the Petzl Williams biners (and BD Rocklock, etc) are just too big.

jackhmullen · · Oceanside CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Yeah so far it seams like Attache is what I'm gonna go with, is 3D worth it?

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

whuddah belay device ... thats the question ;)

belay biners wear out decently quick if you climb and rap enough one em ... so dont spend $$$$

and those fancy i-beams wear down to a sharp edge

Peter Hurtgen · · Dallas, TX · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 110

The 3D is good if ur using it on a cinch or gri but I find the friction on it I be a little low... I love my 3d with my cinch or on the loop end of my guide but I don't really like to use it when it's in contact with the rope. Get the regular attaché! It's awesome!

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

Agree with bear. What belay device?

Petzl Attache is a classic. I loved the "Spin Ball" model but they discontinued it.
I wouldn't do the 3d. I have one and it's not nearly as well made in my opinion. Lighter yes but everything else seems to place 2nd behind the regular Attache.

WC Synergy LITE is really nice. I like that they kept the bar stock ROUND at the wear point. NICE.

Those are probably my top two "simple HMS" biner.

I actually really like the GridLock but only for certain belay applications.

jackhmullen · · Oceanside CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
Jack Mullen wrote:Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet?
That or the Synergy Lite (very similar). The 3d isn't as smooth due to the I-Beam construction and I think the screw barrel sucks. It's not nearly as smooth as the regular Attache. I use the 3d for master point or anchor building stuff (BD Guide goes on the 3d and attache is used for the ropes side)

GridLock is really nice for cragging where I might be clipping in and out of the rope numerous times on the ground without taking it off my belay loop. I use it with numerous devices. Not a fan of the gridlock on multipitch where the keeper tab becomes more a PITA. Multipitch you tend to clip in once , belay and then move it to the back of your harness.
Chris Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 75

Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates?

rockexotica.com/products/ca…

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Jack Mullen wrote:Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet.
any solid bar stock ... itll wear the best ... and the weight savings from a single belay biner is minimal ...
Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

The Petzl Attache is the only one of these carabiners made in the USA, if that makes a difference to you.

cjon3s · · Sterling, VA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5
Chris Vinson wrote:Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? rockexotica.com/products/ca…
Yeah, I've got one. They're pretty awesome. Huge gate opening and they just feel super solid in your hand. Little touches like a skull and cross bones when the gate is unlocked bring it up a notch as well.
MTKirk · · Billings, MT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 245
Chris Vinson wrote:Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? rockexotica.com/products/ca…
I have one from a couple of years ago. I bought the model that you can spin to hold the lock open, thinking this would be less of a PITA for loading the belay device. Actually it's just as difficult to undo the lock open mechanism as to open a auto-locker, plus you can forget to lock the thing just like a screw gate.

Other than that it's OK, big and round for good rope feed. Compared to the Attache it's bigger, heavier, and the small end is bigger and flatter so it will wander around on your belay loop (or gri-gri, cinch, guide hole of ATC, etc.) more.

Put me down as another vote for the regular Petzel Attache.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

No one is going to mention the Omega Pacific Jake?

michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120

The OP Jake Jr. and Attache are my two favorite carabiners out there, hands down. The offset gate on the Jake is actually a really nice feature, but it isn't keylock.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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