Petzl Attache, Metolius Element, or WC Synergy?
|
My belay carabiner has gotten a bit too sketch and I've decided that it's high time to get a new one, I've been looking at these three mainly but any other recommendations would be cool too. (I'm primarily doing single pitch trad with the occasional multipitch.) |
|
Get a Petzl William ball locker. I've had several of these one for about 5 years used for belay,rap,and anchors. It shows no noticeable wear besides scratches. Plus it will piss your brother off. He hates them. It will also keep him from using your shit! |
|
Hahaha I do quite enjoy the prospect of pissing off my brother but like him I'm not a fan of autolockers, I prefer the classic screw. |
|
But that still leaves the option of the William screw lock. |
|
Petzl Attache is hard to beat, lasts forever, and isn't one of those piece of crap autolocks. |
|
I find the people who don't like auto lockers, don't use them that often. I started my climbing career using them so I'm able to open them without thinking. It just takes practice like anything. The weight difference with similar shaped lockers is generally not much, the trade off is peace of mind. Though I do have a bunch of the BD screw lockers for ice and when I'm concerned about going light, but they do wear out quickly. The cheap cost lets them be easily left behind as bailers. What ever you do, DON'T BUY THE BD GRIDLOCK! |
|
Attache is hard to beat, I use one exclusively as my belay/rap biner. I also have a similar size and shape Trango that works nicely but is not a key lock. All that said, I have been considering getting a couple WC Synergy Lite - slightly smaller than the standard Synergy, lighter, but a real nice shape and still full circular profile where it counts. I think the Petzl Williams biners (and BD Rocklock, etc) are just too big. |
|
Yeah so far it seams like Attache is what I'm gonna go with, is 3D worth it? |
|
whuddah belay device ... thats the question ;) |
|
The 3D is good if ur using it on a cinch or gri but I find the friction on it I be a little low... I love my 3d with my cinch or on the loop end of my guide but I don't really like to use it when it's in contact with the rope. Get the regular attaché! It's awesome! |
|
Agree with bear. What belay device? |
|
Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet. |
|
Jack Mullen wrote:Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet?That or the Synergy Lite (very similar). The 3d isn't as smooth due to the I-Beam construction and I think the screw barrel sucks. It's not nearly as smooth as the regular Attache. I use the 3d for master point or anchor building stuff (BD Guide goes on the 3d and attache is used for the ropes side) GridLock is really nice for cragging where I might be clipping in and out of the rope numerous times on the ground without taking it off my belay loop. I use it with numerous devices. Not a fan of the gridlock on multipitch where the keeper tab becomes more a PITA. Multipitch you tend to clip in once , belay and then move it to the back of your harness. |
|
Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? |
|
Jack Mullen wrote:Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet.any solid bar stock ... itll wear the best ... and the weight savings from a single belay biner is minimal ... |
|
The Petzl Attache is the only one of these carabiners made in the USA, if that makes a difference to you. |
|
Chris Vinson wrote:Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? rockexotica.com/products/ca…Yeah, I've got one. They're pretty awesome. Huge gate opening and they just feel super solid in your hand. Little touches like a skull and cross bones when the gate is unlocked bring it up a notch as well. |
|
Chris Vinson wrote:Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? rockexotica.com/products/ca…I have one from a couple of years ago. I bought the model that you can spin to hold the lock open, thinking this would be less of a PITA for loading the belay device. Actually it's just as difficult to undo the lock open mechanism as to open a auto-locker, plus you can forget to lock the thing just like a screw gate. Other than that it's OK, big and round for good rope feed. Compared to the Attache it's bigger, heavier, and the small end is bigger and flatter so it will wander around on your belay loop (or gri-gri, cinch, guide hole of ATC, etc.) more. Put me down as another vote for the regular Petzel Attache. |
|
No one is going to mention the Omega Pacific Jake? |
|
The OP Jake Jr. and Attache are my two favorite carabiners out there, hands down. The offset gate on the Jake is actually a really nice feature, but it isn't keylock. |