Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Petzl Attache, Metolius Element, or WC Synergy?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Apr 14, 2013

My belay carabiner has gotten a bit too sketch and I've decided that it's high time to get a new one, I've been looking at these three mainly but any other recommendations would be cool too. (I'm primarily doing single pitch trad with the occasional multipitch.)


FLAG
By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Apr 14, 2013
RJN

Get a Petzl William ball locker. I've had several of these one for about 5 years used for belay,rap,and anchors. It shows no noticeable wear besides scratches. Plus it will piss your brother off. He hates them. It will also keep him from using your shit!


FLAG
By Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Apr 14, 2013

Hahaha I do quite enjoy the prospect of pissing off my brother but like him I'm not a fan of autolockers, I prefer the classic screw.


FLAG
By Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Apr 14, 2013

But that still leaves the option of the William screw lock.


FLAG
By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 14, 2013
Aiding.

Petzl Attache is hard to beat, lasts forever, and isn't one of those piece of crap autolocks.

Just got the Metolius Element: it's much the same, a bit smaller. Screw action is a bit better on the Petzl,


FLAG
By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Apr 14, 2013
RJN

I find the people who don't like auto lockers, don't use them that often. I started my climbing career using them so I'm able to open them without thinking. It just takes practice like anything. The weight difference with similar shaped lockers is generally not much, the trade off is peace of mind. Though I do have a bunch of the BD screw lockers for ice and when I'm concerned about going light, but they do wear out quickly. The cheap cost lets them be easily left behind as bailers. What ever you do, DON'T BUY THE BD GRIDLOCK!


FLAG
By Linnaeus
From New England/ Baltimore
Apr 14, 2013

Attache is hard to beat, I use one exclusively as my belay/rap biner. I also have a similar size and shape Trango that works nicely but is not a key lock. All that said, I have been considering getting a couple WC Synergy Lite - slightly smaller than the standard Synergy, lighter, but a real nice shape and still full circular profile where it counts. I think the Petzl Williams biners (and BD Rocklock, etc) are just too big.


FLAG
By Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Apr 14, 2013

Yeah so far it seams like Attache is what I'm gonna go with, is 3D worth it?


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Apr 14, 2013

whuddah belay device ... thats the question ;)

belay biners wear out decently quick if you climb and rap enough one em ... so dont spend $$$$

and those fancy i-beams wear down to a sharp edge


FLAG
By Peter Hurtgen
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 15, 2013
at the rap from yellow spur

The 3D is good if ur using it on a cinch or gri but I find the friction on it I be a little low... I love my 3d with my cinch or on the loop end of my guide but I don't really like to use it when it's in contact with the rope. Get the regular attaché! It's awesome!


FLAG
By mattm
From TX
Apr 15, 2013
Grande Grotto

Agree with bear. What belay device?

Petzl Attache is a classic. I loved the "Spin Ball" model but they discontinued it.
I wouldn't do the 3d. I have one and it's not nearly as well made in my opinion. Lighter yes but everything else seems to place 2nd behind the regular Attache.

WC Synergy LITE is really nice. I like that they kept the bar stock ROUND at the wear point. NICE.

Those are probably my top two "simple HMS" biner.

I actually really like the GridLock but only for certain belay applications.


FLAG
By Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Apr 15, 2013

Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet.


FLAG
By mattm
From TX
Apr 15, 2013
Grande Grotto

Jack Mullen wrote:
Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet?

That or the Synergy Lite (very similar). The 3d isn't as smooth due to the I-Beam construction and I think the screw barrel sucks. It's not nearly as smooth as the regular Attache. I use the 3d for master point or anchor building stuff (BD Guide goes on the 3d and attache is used for the ropes side)

GridLock is really nice for cragging where I might be clipping in and out of the rope numerous times on the ground without taking it off my belay loop. I use it with numerous devices. Not a fan of the gridlock on multipitch where the keeper tab becomes more a PITA. Multipitch you tend to clip in once , belay and then move it to the back of your harness.


FLAG
By Chris Vinson
Apr 15, 2013

Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates?

www.rockexotica.com/products/carabiners/pirate.html


FLAG
By bearbreeder
Apr 15, 2013

Jack Mullen wrote:
Yeah I'm using the ATC guide so sounds like the non 3D is my best bet.


any solid bar stock ... itll wear the best ... and the weight savings from a single belay biner is minimal ...


FLAG
By Jon Rhoderick
Apr 15, 2013

The Petzl Attache is the only one of these carabiners made in the USA, if that makes a difference to you.


FLAG
By Nick.Grant
From Calgary, Canada
Apr 16, 2013
Having a blast on Grilmair Chimneys

I've used a wide variety of lockers in the past few years and here are my thoughts.

Petzl William (Screw gate)
- Big & burly for a variety of uses.
- Solid screw gate action.
- Reasonable price.

Petzl Attaché
- Compact shape with burly girth.
- Great for toprope anchors as rope runs well on it.
- Reasonable price.

Petzl Attaché 3d
- Superlight
- Low profile for clipping chains and busy belay stations.
- Screw gate action is typical Petzl quality.
- Expensive.

Petzl Locker
- Compact Shape.
- Better stock girth compared to Attaché 3d but not as burly as a William or Attaché.
- Great screw gate action.

DMM Boa
- Massive shape to accommodate rescue kit, multiple cordelettes etc..
- Medium stock girth for solid rope running action.
- Smooth screw gate action.

Black Diamond Magnetron
- Thick and burly stock girth.
- Auto-locking mechanism is both simple to operate simgle-handedly and bombproof. I've had it dragged through snow for 12 hrs without any issue.
- Expensive.

Black Diamond Nitron
- Feels cheap.
- Screw gate action not as solid as Petzl or DMM.
- Significantly cheaper.


FLAG
By cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Apr 16, 2013
Hanging at Seneca

Chris Vinson wrote:
Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? www.rockexotica.com/products/carabiners/pirate.html


Yeah, I've got one. They're pretty awesome. Huge gate opening and they just feel super solid in your hand. Little touches like a skull and cross bones when the gate is unlocked bring it up a notch as well.


FLAG
By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Apr 16, 2013
Me on Supercrack

Chris Vinson wrote:
Anyone here try the Rock Exotica Pirates? www.rockexotica.com/products/carabiners/pirate.html


I have one from a couple of years ago. I bought the model that you can spin to hold the lock open, thinking this would be less of a PITA for loading the belay device. Actually it's just as difficult to undo the lock open mechanism as to open a auto-locker, plus you can forget to lock the thing just like a screw gate.

Other than that it's OK, big and round for good rope feed. Compared to the Attache it's bigger, heavier, and the small end is bigger and flatter so it will wander around on your belay loop (or gri-gri, cinch, guide hole of ATC, etc.) more.

Put me down as another vote for the regular Petzel Attache.


FLAG
By Price
From SLC, UT
Apr 18, 2013

No one is going to mention the Omega Pacific Jake?


FLAG
By michaeltarne
Apr 18, 2013

The OP Jake Jr. and Attache are my two favorite carabiners out there, hands down. The offset gate on the Jake is actually a really nice feature, but it isn't keylock.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.