This route is on the south side of the jailhouse rock canyon. Look for two chimney cracks with a small crack running up between them. Start slightly to the right of the smaller crack. Climb up to the left crack via an obvious ramp. Up the left crack until you see a well defined ledge to step over to the middle crack. Follow the middle crack until it fades out, then chimney up the right wide crack to the chains on the left side of the chimney.
Standard rack - stoppers and cams from .5 to 4". This route has some of the best stopper placements around.
Doing some of the chimney moves near the end of th...
|By Vincent Greene|
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun easy route that protects easily. There are enough bomber stopper placements that this could easily go with a passive only rack. I think it is closer to 5.7 than 5.6.
|By dale polen|
From: arivaca, az
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Totally 5.3, no harder no way. great climb though.