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Finger Lickin' Area
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Finger Lickin'  
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Petty Larceny 

5.11b

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, Ken Yager, Grant Hiskes, 1984
Submitted By: Osprey on Dec 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

An excellent crack for those just breaking in to the grade. Sometimes it is wet at the bottom, and partially sand filled higher up. Don't let this stop you. Pull through the crux at the bottom. Finger lock and jam your way to the top, then rappel from slings around a bush or walk off to the right.


Location 

This is the left of three cracks at the bottom of the Finger Lickin' area. The first to be reached on the approach trail.


Protection 

Single set of gear.



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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2010

I decked off this in '07 when a foot chip busted and my gear ripped a flake on the right (uninjured, thankfully). No temptations to stick gear behind that flake anymore, just bust the crux right off the ground and the locks open up to decent fingers at about 15'.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jan 10, 2012

A lead would be exciting for sure. I think a crash pad would be a smart call...

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 10, 2012

I would say this is NOT a great climb if your breaking into the grade. Deck potential on the hardest moves down low is not a good combination for a budding .11 leader.