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Routes in The Throne
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Abaddon's Reign T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Forgotten Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magnum P.I. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Petticoat T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunderstruck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | S. Kimball, D. Snively, and B. Gillett, 1999. |
| Page Views: | 956 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 7, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is a delicate and technical route from the bottom up. The crux lies somewhere in the lower half, but where depends upon the climber's style.
The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.
The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.
Location
This route is the obvious and only bolted line starting from the ground on the west side of the North-facing arete, a relative low point of the rock. The trail leads up to this area. A good base below it is gained by hiking around to the south and up, or ducking under a boulder and going through on the North side of the arete.
The route goes up past 3 bolts, crosses a wide crack (Thunderstruck) at a chockstone, and runs it out up and left to gain a line of 3 more bolts.
The ledge on top bears an obvious anchor. One can rap from that, or continue for 2 more pitches to the summit on the upper 1/2 of Magnum PI, which is 5.9+ "adventure climbing."
The route goes up past 3 bolts, crosses a wide crack (Thunderstruck) at a chockstone, and runs it out up and left to gain a line of 3 more bolts.
The ledge on top bears an obvious anchor. One can rap from that, or continue for 2 more pitches to the summit on the upper 1/2 of Magnum PI, which is 5.9+ "adventure climbing."
Protection
6 draws to a 2 bolt anchor with no cord or chain. A cordelette is nice to have up top, and if you plan to bail off after 1 pitch, you'll be leaving something behind to rap from- cord & biners or links.
The (very) long runout on 5.7 climbing between bolts 3 and 4 can be virtually eliminated with 3/4"-2" cams or stoppers.
The (very) long runout on 5.7 climbing between bolts 3 and 4 can be virtually eliminated with 3/4"-2" cams or stoppers.
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