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 ADVANCED
Fraggle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmic Trigger 
I Have The Touch 
Jolly Roger  
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 
Poppin' and Breakin' 
Prozac Crack 
Scattered Remains 
Sensory Deprivation 
Stairway to Kevin 
Still, The 
Tiers for Fears 
Wuthering Heights 
Unsorted Routes:

Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Vaino Kodas & Diana Leach, 1985, FL: Mike Paul & Dave Tucker, 1987
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002
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"Andrew" the climber formerly known as AJ powering...

Description 

About 100' left of Tiers for Fears is this fabulous corner system with twin cracks. Lieback/jam and stem your way up the corner using both cracks to a bolted anchor at a stance.

Perhaps the best gear lead on the rock, this fun climb has great moves on good rock in a quiet, remote-feeling setting. Were the climb longer perhaps it would deserve more stars. Three out of five stars.


Protection 

Pro to 2" (with emphasis on thin stuff), bolted anchor/rap



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By Richard Shore
Jan 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Bolted anchor indicated in the guide and here is GONE. Belay up top with gear and descend via the standard gully scramble down the middle of Fraggle Rock

By Mark J Gain
Apr 24, 2013

Thanks Rich, Was thinking of getting out there soon, and your info. helps, to make me go and camp out ontop of BigMo for 1 yr. and see what happens, just kidding... I dont get into that cr*p... There is always a way down but there is always an easier and safer way too, thats what gets me, what are two bolts but two bolts, whats safer two bolts or gear? Sorry for the rant!

By Mark J Gain
Apr 24, 2013

Super duper route BTW :)