Climb up the massive gaping chimney (5.8ish) just to the left of Fruit Loops. Climb up and clip two bolts before preparing to do battle. A hard and bizarre sequence of moves gives you purchase to the other Chimney out left. After getting into the other chimney, climb up jugs following the chimney to the anchors.
The obvious huge chimney just to the left of Fruit loops. Look for the two bolts.
Two bolts and standard rack. The crux protects well with a #1 in the constriction at the start of the chimney. The top section protects in horizontals. You need a 70m rope to get down.
|By Edward Medina|
From: Charlotte, NC
Jan 25, 2013
Rumor has it that Matt (Smith?) freed the hard moves getting into the slot a few years ago. He approached the crux by first climbing Fruit Loops however. Sean Cobourn thought there was a good independent climb that could incorporate the crux moves through the roof slot while adding a whole new chimney start. We drilled the two bolts on lead, but were unable to link the entire climb. Wondering who got the official FFA?
|By Kevin DB|
Jan 26, 2013
I kind of think whoever did the slot moves first really should get credit for the first ascent. Definitely the Chimney is the natural line though, and pretty rad in it's own right but the real business is the slot. My buddy Clay and I went and check it out the other day, he sent and I followed. I'll try to get a good picture of it sometime next week when I go for the send. It's a rad line, a real unique OW slot testpiece.
|By William Rhyne|
From: clayton, nc
Feb 26, 2013
well you boys have inspired interest! i'll if i can find it and give it a shot this weekend. Kevin DB , how did your burn go?
|By Mike Reardon|
Sep 28, 2013
A bit of background on the line since inquiry was posted: Sean and Medina bolted the chimney, bailing to the Fruit Loops anchors. A few weeks later, Sean, Brian and Cole Gulden and I returned to do it all free with the awkward left finish (spring/summer 2011). Sean and Brian had seen it and wanted to give it a go. We drew straws, I got the lead. I was Mid way through the crux when we heard a call for help to our right. It was a tragic rappelling accident from a party we did not know and a 5 hour rescue ensued. The day will forever haunt us. Tie knots in the ends of your rope!
A few months later, several of us involved with the rescue went back to climb it for cathartic release. We drew straws, I got the lead again, using the cool chimney as a start, and the awkward off width finish. All moves were pulled free but I fell and whined a lot so for the FFA... still don't know.
We did it in two pitches with the second pitch finishing on the P2 anchors of Fruit Loops. Beware of sharp edges if you combine pitches.