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The Three Penguins
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Greater Wrong of the Right, The 
Petrified Bear's Dick 
Right Chimney 

Petrified Bear's Dick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a A2

Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 4, 2007
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Comfy belay top pitch one (Who wants to hang in...
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This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.


backside of the Three Penguins.


Maybe a few pins, and some wide pieces to slide along up the OWth.

Photos of Petrified Bear's Dick Slideshow Add Photo
Party on the summit.  Photo;  Todd Gordon collection.
Party on the summit. Photo; Todd Gordo...
Three Penguins.  Photo;  Todd Gordon collection.
Three Penguins. Photo; Todd Gordon col...
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