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Myke nearing the first crux.
Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock. Just to the right of said petroglyphs is the route Moon Goddess Revenge, a more alluring flip-flop dihedral.
Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.
The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.
Small cams and TCUs , mostly 0.4 - 0.75" with a few pieces up to good hand size.
BETA PHOTO: Tony Bubb leads 'Petrelli Motors (5.10-)' on Blue ...
Boots Barto onsights Petrelli Motors.
Bill eyeballing the next finger locks two-thirds o...
Winter in the Creek,2003
|Comments on Petrelli Motors
|By Aimee Rose|
From: Bend, or
Apr 19, 2006
This was my favorite climb at IC. So much fun and great bouldery moves. I made it super exciting by not bringing enough small cams.
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
The Bloom guidebook is off on the sizes for this route. I think he recommends .5"-2.0", but there's nothing larger than a 0.75 (green) camalot, and that's in the first 15' of the route. All small stuff after that.
From: Yucaipa, CA
Jun 1, 2009
I absolutely love this route and it's one of my all time favorites. Perfect fingers - must have climbed this 5 or 6 times.
|By Bob Dobalina|
Jun 11, 2009
A good pitch. Rope grooves make good side pulls for the last move!
|By Erica Hernandez|
From: GOLDEN, CO
Jun 2, 2012
Great fingers near the bottom. There's cool petroglyphs to the right of this climb but just a little further to the right, and up a bit high, there's life-sized petroglyphs of three people. Really cool!
From: San Francisco
May 6, 2013
Great finger climb. Boulder start and a few lay back moves in the sequence.