|The Blob - Southeast Face
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An awkward crack climb, one inch wide at the crux.
This crack route is on the southeast face of The Blob, to the right of the Papa Woolsey face. It is in a somewhat indistinct dihedral, and starts part way up the rock.
Gear to 2-3 inches, including one or two 1" cams.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Either a hold has broken off (my suspicion as there is a scar where a hold would make sense) or this is a bit of a sandbag. Three of us today all found the crux move harder than 10a.
The crux involved tenuous shallow chimneying on a poorly placed finger jam to make the reach to a better finger jam. And one of us was 6'+. A clear scar is visible on the rock above the first finger jam, and it really looks like there was once a hold there.
|By Darren D.|
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
This route should be re-named "Pete's Handful of $hit." Maybe I'm pissed because I had such a difficult time with it. For sure harder than nine.
|By Craig Parsley|
Nov 8, 2007
Andy is correct...there once was a handhold where the scar now remains. The climb is called "Pete's Handful" because on the first follow, Pete Wilkening pulled the hold off. He kept it I think. It did make the climb much more difficult sans the hold.