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The Blob - Southeast Face
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Pete's Handful 
Wonderful World Of Art, The 

Pete's Handful 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Craig Parsley & Pete Wilkening, Nov 1973
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 7, 2006
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Description 

An awkward crack climb, one inch wide at the crux.


Location 

This crack route is on the southeast face of The Blob, to the right of the Papa Woolsey face. It is in a somewhat indistinct dihedral, and starts part way up the rock.


Protection 

Gear to 2-3 inches, including one or two 1" cams.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Either a hold has broken off (my suspicion as there is a scar where a hold would make sense) or this is a bit of a sandbag. Three of us today all found the crux move harder than 10a.

The crux involved tenuous shallow chimneying on a poorly placed finger jam to make the reach to a better finger jam. And one of us was 6'+. A clear scar is visible on the rock above the first finger jam, and it really looks like there was once a hold there.

By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This route should be re-named "Pete's Handful of $hit." Maybe I'm pissed because I had such a difficult time with it. For sure harder than nine.

By Craig Parsley
Nov 8, 2007

Andy is correct...there once was a handhold where the scar now remains. The climb is called "Pete's Handful" because on the first follow, Pete Wilkening pulled the hold off. He kept it I think. It did make the climb much more difficult sans the hold.