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Big Slab & Compactor 
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Peterskill 


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Administrators: JSH, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 13, 2006

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Looking at rap station above Psycho Crack.

Description 

A "miniature Gunks", Peterskill has the same type of rock (quartzite conglomerate), the same type of routes (filled with roofs and horizontal cracks), and uses similar gear--but is only one pitch high. It's the perfect place to get used to leading/seconding, TRing, and learning to build gear anchors. There is an access trail that runs along the entire top of the cliff with several places to descend to a similar access trail that runs along the bottom of the cliff; getting up top to set up a TR anchor is extremely easy.

Peterskill is home to the globally-rare Ridgeline Dwarf Pitch Pine - in fact, it's one of the largest stands of Pitch Pines in the United States; consequently, Minnewaska State Park has declared the Pitch Pines as protected, and not to be used in any way as part of an anchor. If you don't know what a Pitch Pine looks like, then don't use ANY coniferous (pine) trees, just to be safe. Also, any tree used in an anchor should be padded in some way to protect against rope damage. Failure to comply with these rules can and will result in the closing of Peterskill to climbing.

Nearly every anchor in Peterskill is gear; there are a scant handful of double-bolted anchors, but they're the exception. Also, since most of the trees closest to the cliff edge are Pitch Pines, it's important to bring along enough static line/webbing to reach back to the allowable trees. The anchor bolts exist due to the efforts of some of the guide services; they're the ONLY ones allowed to put in anchor bolts. Please do not add any without proper authorization.

The nicest thing about Peterskill--aside from the Gunks-quality rock and ease of access--is the fact that Minnewaska Preserve limits the number of climbers allow on-site per day. This tends to prevent the crowds you'll see at the Gunks. But get there early, or risk being turned away.

There is a thin guidebook available; check at Rock & Snow. Unfortunately, the guide doesn't have several of the new routes listed. There were plans to revamp the guidebook and include new pictures and the new routes; however, that has stalled and shows no signs of reviving.

Entry Fees - Unfortunately, your Mohonk Preserve season pass will not work at Peterskill, and your Peterskill season pass won't work at the Trapps - the areas are under different management. For 2013, Peterskill pricing is:

$10 per climber / boulderer per day
100 climbers and 30 boulderers allowed in the climbing area at one time
Season pass: $90 per person

When you leave for the day - especially if you leave early - check out at the booth. This will 1) help the management keep track of who might still be out on the rock if someone goes missing, and 2) allow another climber in, if the max for the day has already been reached. For each climber that leaves, they'll allow another in.


Getting There 

Peterskill is located approximately 1.4 miles past the West Trapps Parking Area for the Gunks; continue along 44/55 past the Trapps lot, and you'll see the Minnewaska State Park - Peterskill Climbing Area sign on your right. From the parking lot to the cliffs is no more than a few minutes walk; even at the furthest climbing wall, you're not more than 10 minutes from the parking lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Peterskill:
Bunk Arete   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Bunkbed Wall
Cool Hand Luke   5.6 PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area
Slot Machine   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Golden Wall
The Kling-On   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Enterprise Wall
Santa's Escape   5.7 X     TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Oops Wall
Skink   5.8-     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Golden Wall
Psycho Crack Right   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Psycho Wall
Reach Around   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Tom's Wall & Next West Face
Pop Quiz   5.8 PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Chalkboard Wall
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Impossible Roof Area
Standardized Testing   5.9+ PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Chalkboard Wall
The Yellow Wallpaper   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Psycho Wall
The Golden Dream   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Golden Wall
Crack-A-Lack   5.10a R     TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Tom's Wall & Next West Face
Fickle Fingers   5.10a/b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Golden Wall
Circuit Breaker   5.10     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Breaker & Very Blocky Walls
Oops   5.10     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Oops Wall
Floops   5.10 PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Oops Wall
The Land of the Lost   5.11b X     TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cuckoo's Nest
LA Roof   5.13b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   LA Roof
Browse More Classics in Peterskill

Featured Route For Peterskill
Land of the Lost

The Land of the Lost 5.11b X  NY : The Gunks : ... : Cuckoo's Nest
Including for completeness sake. Never seen anyone actually climb this one....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY


Comments on Peterskill Add Comment
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By Tabo
Aug 31, 2009

Peterskill is really a great place for beginners.

It can be a great place for learning to lead... but beware! I've had a few ropes come whizzing past while on lead, one in a rope bag almost took me out. Most people are there to toprope, and if they don't see an anchor at the top, they don't expect anyone to be leading from below.

So take care leading at PK.

Other info:
PK has bathrooms, with running water, so it can be more kid/beginner friendly.

The parking lot closes at dusk. Once they close the gate, you won't be able to get your car out of the lot.

By Shawn Adams
From: Hyde Park, New York
Nov 23, 2010

Why are so many comments about copperheads at Peterskill here on Mountain Project? I have been climbing the Gunks for more than 20 years and I have only ever seen a copperhead (and it was a baby) at the Trapps along the carriage road. Only snake I've ever seen at PK was a large black snake near Night Owl at the Bunkbed wall. Has there suddenly been an explosion in the copperhead population at PK? I did part of an environmental study there about 5 yrs ago and didn't find any snakes, only lizards and frogs. I'm just curious about what the deal is?

By Pat Langendorfer
Mar 19, 2011

Shawn,
I was up there in September 2010, and didn't see any snakes, BUT it isn't just the copperheads you need to look out for. There are definitely rattlesnakes too. thankfully most of the nesting areas have been marked off by park staff, but beware when plugging gear for top anchors around the Khadejha Area. Don't end up in the hospital!

By IJMayer
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 25, 2011

Would any administrator mind if I started adding stuff about the boulders? The bouldering at Peter's Kill is awesome and the main reason I go there (besides a few really awesome climbs).

By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Mar 29, 2011

Would any administrator mind if I started adding stuff about the boulders? The bouldering at Peter's Kill is awesome and the main reason I go there (besides a few really awesome climbs).

There's lots of good bouldering there. Get the ball rolling.

By JSH
Administrator
Mar 30, 2011

By all means, please do! I think adding it as an Area under the main Gunks page is the thing to do - same as the Trapps Bouldering section, and it'll need its own Area page, like this one:

www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/the_gunks/trapps_boulderi>>>

I'll leave it up to you as to whether lumping all P-kill bouldering in one page, or making separate subareas for each boulder/area, is best.

By Tom Ormond
Jul 18, 2012

Why are so many comments about copperheads at Peterskill here on Mountain Project?

I lived on Trapps road and at Split Rock for a few years, worked as a Preserve Ranger and a Minnewaska State Park Ranger, spend years of my life at the Peterskill doing everything from climbing to dirtbiking out there. There are plenty of snakes, copperheads and rattlers all over. My friends dog got into a copperhead once, it was bad. Beware all over the Gunks for those little dudes.

By Tom Ormond
Jul 23, 2012

Gunks rattler
Gunks rattler
Submitted By: Tom Ormond on Jul 23, 2012