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Climb Captain hook,and cary on up the big bad roof. The crux is 10' from the top, with a fixed wire above it for dogging
Far right Orange Crush
13 Bolts with some long runners down low.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Mar 9, 2011
This is a great second pitch that deserves more action. Second pitch 12s seem to languish at Rumney though for some reason. I'm not usually for fixed draws, but this route and Tinkerbell to the right would be good candidates for them if they were rock colored. The route is pumpy, burly and technical. Often wet in the spring and the ravens nesting off to the left won't like you climbing here, so the route is seasonal.
After climbing Captain Hook, I suggest continuing up to the anchor further up at the beginning of the headwall, clipping in then pulling your rope up through the protection below and getting put back on belay to reduce rope drag. It will free up the popular Captain Hook too while you tackle the second pitch.