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Peter Left
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Mead Hargis and Kim Schmitz (1971) |
Page Views: | 3,940 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Jan 13, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is the right side of the Peter Pan pinnacle, comprised of two pitches (which can be linked into one) up an intimidating looking right-facing corner.
The climb was originally cleaned out by Peter Haan after which he left to work in the Bay Area for a bit. Schmitz returned with Hargis to snag the first ascent. Hence the name, Peter Left.
The route begins a pitch off the ground. Several options exist. Lost Boys is a 5.9 corner over to the right. Tinker Bell is a small pinnacle which can be climbed via it's left side @ 5.7, or right side @ 5.9. Or the most direct route and probably the best (and the one we did) is Indubious Battle, an 11a corner almost directly below. All of these routes will lead to the ledge system which the climb begins from.
Pitch one will be the crux for most people. The crack starts off about 5" but quickly shrinks to perfect #4 Camalots. For people with huge hands this will be a nice fist crack, but for most it will be an offwidth too tight for a knee. At least it's in a corner and the friction is really good. There's much harder 10b offwidths in the Valley (see: The Slack, Left). Above there's a 2 bolt anchor and a small ledge. Since I lugged such a massive rack up here and still hadn't placed most of it, I opted to just clip one of the bolts and keep climbing.
The second pitch starts off with what the guide book calls "5.9 hands". I certainly did a lot more fist jamming through this section than anything else. Eventually you'll get up to some flakes that are hanging out of the crack. There was a section here that I thought was probably the crux of this pitch, where you're sort of grappling with the flakes. Then it's a short easy section of liebacking up a wide crack to reach the base of the squeeze chimney. If you're a big dude and cheated...err...fist-jammed your way up the first pitch offwidth, then this is where the climb will seek it's final revenge. If you can't squeeze through it it will probably really suck since the corner is quite steep through this section. After that it's a bit of easy low angle offwidth to the ledge and top of the Peter Pan feature.
To descend, make two double rope rappels straight down from the bolt on the left side of the ledge which is around to the left of the ledge the climb ends on.
The climb was originally cleaned out by Peter Haan after which he left to work in the Bay Area for a bit. Schmitz returned with Hargis to snag the first ascent. Hence the name, Peter Left.
The route begins a pitch off the ground. Several options exist. Lost Boys is a 5.9 corner over to the right. Tinker Bell is a small pinnacle which can be climbed via it's left side @ 5.7, or right side @ 5.9. Or the most direct route and probably the best (and the one we did) is Indubious Battle, an 11a corner almost directly below. All of these routes will lead to the ledge system which the climb begins from.
Pitch one will be the crux for most people. The crack starts off about 5" but quickly shrinks to perfect #4 Camalots. For people with huge hands this will be a nice fist crack, but for most it will be an offwidth too tight for a knee. At least it's in a corner and the friction is really good. There's much harder 10b offwidths in the Valley (see: The Slack, Left). Above there's a 2 bolt anchor and a small ledge. Since I lugged such a massive rack up here and still hadn't placed most of it, I opted to just clip one of the bolts and keep climbing.
The second pitch starts off with what the guide book calls "5.9 hands". I certainly did a lot more fist jamming through this section than anything else. Eventually you'll get up to some flakes that are hanging out of the crack. There was a section here that I thought was probably the crux of this pitch, where you're sort of grappling with the flakes. Then it's a short easy section of liebacking up a wide crack to reach the base of the squeeze chimney. If you're a big dude and cheated...err...fist-jammed your way up the first pitch offwidth, then this is where the climb will seek it's final revenge. If you can't squeeze through it it will probably really suck since the corner is quite steep through this section. After that it's a bit of easy low angle offwidth to the ledge and top of the Peter Pan feature.
To descend, make two double rope rappels straight down from the bolt on the left side of the ledge which is around to the left of the ledge the climb ends on.
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