|Feudal Wall (Right Side)
Pet or Meat
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Todd Gordon, Bob Gaines, Cyndie Bransford & Steve McCallister, January 1990|
|Page Views: ||1,361|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jul 5, 2002|
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Climber on the relatively steep start of "Pet or M...
Located on the far right side of the wall, this route climbs a squat formation with a right slanting crack on it's right side. Scramble up to the base and begin at a right slanting crack. From here the route climbs up and left then straight up to the top and a ledge where there is an anchor.
A steep (for Josh) route that is somewhat tricky and may seem hard for the grade first time on.
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")
|By C Miller|
Nov 23, 2003
The location of the anchor and lack of anything permanent on it makes this a good climb to belay and walk off.
|By Tan Slacks|
From: Joshua tree
Aug 15, 2004
The name comes from a sign that was observed in the Michael Moore Movie "Roger and me". He actually made a sequel to "Roger and me" called "Pet or Meat" It refers to a woman who was so down on her luck at finding a job in Flint, Michigan that she raised rabbits. She would skin some for meat sale and the others were sold as pets. Hence, Pet or Meat.. The woman was so interesting that she was a highlight of the first film and became the focus of the sequel. I recommend both films, and the climb.
From: Westminster, CO
Jan 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
today it felt more like a 5.10d headed towards an 5.15. Couldn't make the moves. In the sun until late afternoon. Recommended winter climb...
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 13, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Currently has two anchor bolts and rap rings, February 2009.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 26, 2012
I can't lead it. I can't even follow follow it clean. Went out today to my nemesis with a friend and was mentally prepared to be the cover shot for belayer magazine. After watching my friend float it I thought that perhaps my memory from attempt 2002 was foggy and gave it a shot. pfff!
Pretty tough and sequential getting between the 2nd & 3rd bolt. That said, the moves coming off the stance at the 3rd isn't that easy at 5'7" either. Great route, terrific varnish, quality rock and nice bolt placements (or as much as I could tell not actually being on the sharp end).
I've said many times over the years it's a hard 10c.........and I said it again today. Proud lead for anyone who does it. Do it once, do it a dozen times it will always be a good tick for those who can!
|By Phil Esra|
Mar 18, 2013
Really fun, balancy, thoughtful moves on "medium" quality rock. Safely bolted.