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Pervade 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Luke Childers
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: Luke Childers on Dec 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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BETA PHOTO: The rightmost route on the east-facing wall of the...
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is heading towards the last few moves towards the anchors. I would say that making last crimp reaches for a (thank you) hand jam in horizontal while fighting off the growing forearm pump.


Location 

This is the rightmost route on the lower tier of routes at Leftwire.


Protection 

7 bolts to LOs.



Photos of Pervade Slideshow Add Photo
Dave gets to enjoy some jugs.  Oddly, it feels kind of like limestone.
Dave gets to enjoy some jugs. Oddly, it feels kin...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2014
By popes
From: Edgewater
Feb 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very good route, current guidebook on Clear Creek notes the grade as 10b, I think that's a more appropriate grade.

By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2009

Only a totally hard-up maniac could think that route is 10b. Downgrading is so bourgeois.

By popes
From: Edgewater
Apr 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You know what Zac Attac? Guideline #1 for comments says don't be a jerk, it says nothing about being bourgeois or being a hard up maniac. So yeah.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
May 2, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Rolofson's book calls it 5.11a if you go straight up at the last bolt, or 5.10d if you go slightly right. The straight up version certainly looked as if it could brush 5.11 territory. I went right, and felt it was around 5.10c.
Fun climb.
Edit: did the straight up version today, would call that 5.10d. It's not 5.11, but it's harder than 10b.

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Very fun climb. I agree that it comes in at 10c if you go right and 10d if you go direct. Either way it is a surprisingly good climb. This whole area is awesome!

As a side note, a friend of mine took a pendulum fall at about the 4th bolt and swung into the dirty crack left of this route. TWO 35lb ROCKS CAME FLYING DOWN AT ME! Luckily I was able to dodge them, but it was without doubt the scariest thing that has ever happened to me while climbing. Glad I was using an autolocking belay device and the climber called them out.

By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Jul 23, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I cleaned some of the loose crap in the crack to the left last night. One block was a hundred pounder that I was able to wiggle out with one hand. Yikes!

By Phill T
Apr 22, 2011

The only way this is 11a or even 10d going direct is if you have no flipping idea how to do a handjam. Screw all the crimps and finger jugs up there right before the anchors, throw in a meaty jam and call off belay, cuz you aren't falling out unless your arm comes out of its socket.

Fun route, I'll definitely be doing it again when I'm back in the area.

By Dan Holz
From: Denver, CO
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yup, I would say that it goes at a very solid 5.10b. Fun and pumpy!

By John Tex
From: My camper, CO
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Go direct at the finish! Awesome move to top off a really fun climb. Harder than the other 10s at High Wire IMO but also a different style of climbing. Really fun!

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 27, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No way this is 10d, or 11a going straight up. This route is more pumpy than it is technically difficult. You do ONE crimpy pull in between two huge horizontal cracks with bomber feet by going straight up at the top. Night Stick (to the left) which is considered 11b is a full number grade harder than this route. This route should be the standard for what 5.10b should feel like in this canyon.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There are now 2 or 3 loose blocks on this route.... Possibly new after the September 2013 rain? Either way, still a great route! There's a giant loose block that makes it pretty exciting (for the belayer).