Pervade 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Luke Childers |
| Season: | Spring/Fall |
| Submitted By: | Luke Childers on Dec 29, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The rightmost route on the east-facing wall of the...
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Description The crux is heading towards the last few moves towards the anchors. I would say that making last crimp reaches for a (thank you) hand jam in horizontal while fighting off the growing forearm pump.
Protection 7 bolts to LOs.
Location This is the rightmost route on the lower tier of routes at Leftwire.
Dave gets to enjoy some jugs. Oddly, it feels kin...
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By popes From: Edgewater Feb 28, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| Very good route, current guidebook on Clear Creek notes the grade as 10b, I think that's a more appropriate grade. |
By ZachS00 From: Denver, CO Mar 8, 2009
| Only a totally hard-up maniac could think that route is 10b. Downgrading is so bourgeois. |
By Paul Carlson From: laramie, wyoming Apr 11, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
| I feel like 10b is accurate, if not generous. Regardless, it's a fun route and well worth doing! |
By popes From: Edgewater Apr 23, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| You know what Zac Attac? Guideline #1 for comments says don't be a jerk, it says nothing about being bourgeois or being a hard up maniac. So yeah. |
By Jeff Welch From: Thornton, CO May 2, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d
| Rolofson's book calls it 5.11a if you go straight up at the last bolt, or 5.10d if you go slightly right. The straight up version certainly looked as if it could brush 5.11 territory. I went right, and felt it was around 5.10c. Fun climb. Edit: did the straight up version today, would call that 5.10d. It's not 5.11, but it's harder than 10b. |
By Chris I From: Fresno, CA Mar 13, 2010 rating: 5.10c/d
| Very fun climb. I agree that it comes in at 10c if you go right and 10d if you go direct. Either way it is a surprisingly good climb. This whole area is awesome! As a side note, a friend of mine took a pendulum fall at about the 4th bolt and swung into the dirty crack left of this route. TWO 35lb ROCKS CAME FLYING DOWN AT ME! Luckily I was able to dodge them, but it was without doubt the scariest thing that has ever happened to me while climbing. Glad I was using an autolocking belay device and the climber called them out. |
By Tom R From: Denver, CO Jul 23, 2010 rating: 5.10c
| I cleaned some of the loose crap in the crack to the left last night. One block was a hundred pounder that I was able to wiggle out with one hand. Yikes! |
By Phill T Apr 22, 2011
| The only way this is 11a or even 10d going direct is if you have no flipping idea how to do a handjam. Screw all the crimps and finger jugs up there right before the anchors, throw in a meaty jam and call off belay, cuz you aren't falling out unless your arm comes out of its socket. Fun route, I'll definitely be doing it again when I'm back in the area. |
By Dan Holz From: Denver, CO Jun 2, 2011 rating: 5.10b
| Yup, I would say that it goes at a very solid 5.10b. Fun and pumpy! |
By John Tex From: Boulder CO May 16, 2013 rating: 5.10c/d
| Go direct at the finish! Awesome move to top off a really fun climb. Harder than the other 10s at High Wire IMO but also a different style of climbing. Really fun! |
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