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Peru or Ruth Gorge
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By TK421
From longmont, co
Feb 9, 2010

Hello,

I am going Alpine climbing this Spring/Summer. That's the truth. The problem I am having is deciding where to go. Indicision sucks! Anyway, I want to keep the price down so that kinda broguht the choices to Alaksa or Peru. Who has been to both and what do you think would be the best for a few week trip to the mountains?
I am looking for mixed and ice routes to play on. Not looking for super hard stuff but not really interested in a walk up either. Things in the range of Ham and Eggs or Alpayamo.

Thanks for helping out.


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By JLP
From The Internet
Feb 9, 2010

Peru has better weather, whereas in AK, it's possible to climb nothing on your trip. That's the main difference. Peru is also 3rd world, with all the things that go with that - ie, the shits and "gringo pricing" hassles.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Feb 9, 2010
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Generally better weather in Peru. Cheaper in Peru. Much more of a serious "wilderness" feel in AK. Can get beers in Huaraz between climbs. Stuck on the Ruth glacier in AK. If altitude is a concern, I'd say that the moderate climbs in Peru can be higher than those in Ruth.


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By Wally
From Denver
Feb 9, 2010

TK - been to Alaska three times, Peru once. The advice above is good. Both awesome destinations. Not a big difference in price. Alaska is maybe $600 to Anchorage, $100 ground transportation to Talkeetna, and another $500 for the glacier flight. Once you get to and out of Lima, Peru is pretty cheap.

Alaksa is more bad ass. Colder - less stable weather. I would base part of the decision on your experience level. Peru is a good place to get experience on semi-technical big mountains.

Having someone in the group that can speak a bit of Spanish is a big plus.

Timing important as well, as Doug noted - different seasons.

Wally


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By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Feb 9, 2010
Desert Tortoise

I agree with Wally all except for the semi-technical aspect of Peru. Without a doubt you can get as high end as your sack can handle. Also keep in mind that rescue in Peru is at best a dodgy proposition.


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By andrew kulmatiski
From logan, ut
Feb 9, 2010
self portrait from on top of pingora

TK421- I don't know what your partner situation is, but i'm looking to do a trip either to Moose's tooth or Cassin. I live in Anchorage and can handle local housing and transport to Talkeetna. PM me. As for S. America, the other comments were on the money: better weather, great cultural experience (machu picchu), but different scale.


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By The Hippy
From Boulder, Co
Feb 9, 2010

Both destinations are sweet! Alaska is definatly more of a wilderness trip, while Peru gives you the chance for a bit of a cultural experience mixed in with your climbing. Peru is cool because you have great access to whatever you want to climb and the weather is much more stable - you are much more likley to get up stuff for this reason. Climbing in Peru also has the advantage that you are never more than a day or two from a disco if you get sick of sitting in a tent. With that said, a sucessfull trip to the Ruth would definatly be an experience you'll never forget. Oh yeah, Alaska seemed F#@king expensive after spending a couple of summers in Peru.


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By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Feb 9, 2010
First climb after knee surgery <br />

Nice thing about Peru is that you can always changee you rmind about your objective if the weather craps out in one section.


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By Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2010
Just below Thunderbolt Peak

So... what months are typically optimal for Peru?

I don't think I'm ready for a place like the Ruth yet. But I'm also going on an alpine binge over summer. Would Banff and the Bugaboos be good alternatives? Other spots in Canada?

I looked into the cirque of the unclimbables, but I don't see it being that much better given the $800 plane ride.


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By stredna
From PA
Feb 10, 2010
Top o' the Preist

dont be sceeered! the ruth has a ton of super mellow and rewarding hikes/scrambles and skis in case your balls shrivel into an unidentifiable mess for a couple days. the scale of those behemoths is massive!!! and there are a ton of 1 pitch routes to do on dodgey-weather days, which never lasted long for us. otherwise shoot for ham and eggs! i only [wet]dream of Peru.


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By Goodhue
From Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2010

Colin, I would highly recommend the Bugaboos. I was there this past summer, and the climbing is amazing. It takes only a day to drive and hike in (from Calgary), and then you're a ~30 minute walk to lots of short (500-700') routes in the Crescent Towers, and then Bugaboo Spire. Even more routes on Snowpatch (a little further, unless you want to aid). Then if you want to hike a little more... well there's lots and lots of good shit.


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By GR Johnson
Feb 22, 2010

ANDREW- I don't know what you are planning on the Moose's Tooth, but I've climbed Ham'n Eggs and Shaken but Not Stirred. We probably could have linked the routes. I have also climbed the Cassin and let me tell you it is a completely different sort of challenge. I mean like entirely different. The Tooth is cragging by comparison. Just giving you a heads up, if you hadn't realized that already. Good Luck!


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By Alfredo
Feb 23, 2010

Hello
There are many mountain ranges in Peru, the Cordillera Blanca is the most knowed but there are beautiful ranges with peaks in Cusco also (south Peru), and most of them weren’t climbed yet or nobody climbed them since the 50’s. The Vilcanota mountain range is the highest in the region, there are 7 mountains over 6000 meters above sea level and more than 100 over 5000m, you can be famous putting your name to any new route. Or you can climb some peaks in Huaraz and then travel to Cusco (the most famous city in Peru since Machupicchu was choosen as one of the new seven wonders of the world) and you can mix your adventure trip with some cultural.
Climbing is not a very popular activity in Cusco as in Huaraz, but there are a couple of mountaineering specialists agencies and a mountaineering club, Club de Andinismo Cusco, these guys can provide you pictures, maps and all the information you may need. The weather and conditions in south are similar than in the Cordillera blanca but the wilderness looks bigger because you won´t find much climbers in the base camps also in some mountains you can´t find people in a couple of days.


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By TK421
From longmont, co
Apr 4, 2011

yo!

thanks for all the help. I just wanted to give you a heads up that I ended up going to Peru. and of course it rocked. did Alpamayo, Chocoqualci, Quitarajo and ran away from Husscaran. But totally awesome pretty darm mellow trip. I dig it- you all should go.

Now for next spring(this spring I am in a cast) So ruth gorge, Cassin or waddington? I know what I am doing and have experience for all of them. I just want to know your opinons as to what would be funner. If there is such a thing. it is all so soo good.

thanks again for all the tips!


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