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Little Eiger
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Persistent Vegetative State 
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Persistent Vegetative State 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,525
Submitted By: Thor Kieser on Jul 9, 2005
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Description 

Even Teri Schaivo would appreciate the quality of this classic corner!

On the Little Eiger there is a distinctive open book that divides the face in half. I have wondered for years why such an obvious line had never been bolted. When I arrived near the top of the corner, I was surprised to discover some old rusty coldshut anchors. Someone inteneded to put the route up in the early eighties but never did, perhaps Tod Anderson? I drilled new anchors for "The Green Zone" nearby and after that climb was in, took a TR lap up the corner and found it to be yet another CC classic. The bottom was dirty and loose, so I cleaned it (still a bit dirty).

Start on the outside of a small arete right of "The Green Zone", follow five bolts to the base of the corner, fire up the corner past 9 clips to The Green Zone anchors. PVS a fun sustained pitch!

This climb is difficult to clean QDs from, as it drifts left for 20' in 95' (now 115' with the new anchors) of climbing. There is a chain and steel biner on bolt 4 to help prevent a huge and dangerous swing while cleaning. Please be careful taking your QDs off this route! You need a 70-meter rope but can get away with a 60m with complications (rap from bolt 4).


Protection 

15 quickdraws plus something for the 2 bolt, vertically-oriented anchors.



Photos of Persistent Vegetative State Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Amato nearing the top of the corner.
Mike Amato nearing the top of the corner.
Looking down PVS, from about where Mike is in the other photo.  Yeah, that' my foot.
Looking down PVS, from about where Mike is in the ...
Just above the small roof at the start.
Just above the small roof at the start.
Comments on Persistent Vegetative State Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2013
By Kirk Woerner
Jul 11, 2005

So, lemme get this straight. You have for years wondered why such an obvious line had never been bolted, you investigated and found clear evidence of prior ascent, and then rather than investigate and maybe get permission from the FA, you assumed that someone just didn't finish what they were doing and so bolted it up? Does this strike anyone else as odd?

By Thor Kieser
Jul 11, 2005

This was not a trad route. In 95 feet of climbing, you might get one piece of pro near the top. I doubt it was ever even TR'd and if so - so what? The Little Eiger isn't exact a trad area and there are no wilderness or ethical issues here. Now the climb is open for many to enjoy. In my humble opinion, the climb was abandoned at least twenty years ago. I don't know who or why it was abandoned, but it's a great route and very fun. I'm sure no egos will be trod upon by the installation of this route, it's only 10b. Go enjoy the climb, try to appreciate those who take the time effort and expense to, so that you may have new high quality routes to explore.

Thor

By Kirk Woerner
Jul 12, 2005

Fair enough. Thanks for the route.

By Tod Anderson
Jul 13, 2005

It is likely that a stray anchor in that area was placed by me a long time ago. I accessed the routes on the previously right side of the Little Eiger by soloing along the ledge system, setting an upper anchor, and then rapping and setting lower anchors for the routes. At the time I rapped into that area, there was no sign of previous activity. Ultimately, my interest in the Little Eiger did not end due to lack of climbable rock but an interest in steeper rock elsewhere and the problem of cleaning the routes without sending chunks into the highway. Now would be a great time to get some things in there without bowling for gambling busses, especially along the right side of the crag. Keep up the good work, Thor, and remember all the bolts were placed prior to JeffCo buying the place up....

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

A fun route with lots of reachy moves to good edges; could be harder than 10b if you're short. Plenty of lichen, dirt and sand to keep you on your toes. The crux is at the 6th bolt, moving up to the base of the final corner with no good handholds. The corner has some great stemming moves and a fun exit at the top.

My partner led the pitch and lowered; I followed and cleaned the draws. This is simpler than cleaning the draws while lowering or rappelling, but is only possible using a 70m rope.

There are 15 bolts on the route.

By Brenda Leach
Aug 5, 2005

Fun route! Most of it felt like about 10a to me. The last corner before stepping left to the anchor felt like a 10b move....not great hands with an awkward reach to the clip (at least the way I ended up doing it). We had only a 60m rope and getting down was a bit of a chore with the way that the route trends so much to left. But, it's doable with rapping at the chain at the 4th bolt.

By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Sep 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

What a great, fun route that follows a neat natural feature, the dihedral. The route is very clean now without any loose rock found during our ascent. Get your feet up at the sixth bolt crux and you will find the key hold. It will feel harder otherwise. The corner exit is classic. The bottom dog tag says 10d but I agree with the 10b rating. Best done with a 70m rope. Nice job, Thor.

By T. Kieser
Oct 10, 2006

New finish up there goes straight up out of the corner to an independent anchor. This should bring us back to the ground a little less left than before. Thor

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Fun route! I did in '05 and thought it was 5.10a/b. Easiest to belay from the top and rap straight down with a 60m rope. (Avoids all the hassles.) I've done it every year since and it's still great.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Thanks Thor for bolting this great route. Super fun.

By ClimberRunner
From: Redmond, WA
May 17, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

LOVED this route! It seemed like it was more interesting climbing than I am used to encountering at Clear Creek. Really fun moves, bolts are close together. There are 15 bolts, and we only brought 12 quickdraws. I was able to place 2 pieces of gear (could have placed more) and clean some draws at my feet after clipping the next bolt, so I only ended up using 10 quickdraws including 2 for the anchor.

By Zac Barr
Jul 17, 2009

Some yahoo drew a bright green line underneath their recommended hand holds on this route. If you know who did this, please give them hell -- and then ask them to clean it up.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Good times, good times. A fun route, good one to warm up on ifín youíre gonna work on some 11c's. Good exposure with nearly perfect 35m of great, juggy-to-edgy vertical.

Donít remember any 10b moves...most of it felt like solid 5.9 with the occasional 10a grab. An excellent choice, I think, for 5.9 leaders ready to push their game and take a big step up. Just make sure to bring that 70m cord or else youíll be dangling like a modifier....

By steple
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The tag on the first bolt says 5.10d. What's up with that?

This route shares anchors with "Free up the Weed". Darren Mable's book is outdated here.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 18, 2011

FUTW was re-routed last year and now finishes on PVS anchors.

By MilkyTech
Aug 11, 2012

Not sure why it says 90 feet at the top of this page and 95 feet in the description. If that were the case, a 60m would make it without a problem. Where it says 35m is accurate (115 ft.) as it left us with about 2 feet of rope to spare with a 70m.

I can only imagine that those who think this is only a 10a are 5.12 or .13 climbers who tend to underrate anything "moderate". This climb is super-vertical with "persistent" 10a moves. Although many of the hand holds are kinda juggy, there are a couple of no-hands moves I would say are 10b-ish.
By this evaluation, you might say it's a 10a/b, but I would think that with it being so sustained, vertical, and long (115 ft), that would bump it up to a 10b/c and if you're not at least 5'11", many of the jugs will be out of reach making it 10c for sure, if not the 10d that the dog tag says.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 11, 2012

MilkyTech, Thor wrote in 2006: "New finish up there goes straight up out of the corner to an independent anchor." So, that is probably why there is the inconsistency. I'll fix it. Also, routes in CCC change in rating with traffic and holds breaking. Thanks.

By MilkyTech
Aug 13, 2012

Fair enough. Thanks to all who contributed to this route, Thor. I enjoyed it tremendously.

By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

None of the moves on this route stuck out to me as 10b, but, by the end, the pump was starting to creep in.

Edit to add after getting back on this route: I must've been on a low gravity day the first time on this. I don't know what I was thinking. I found a lot of moves that felt like solid 10 to me.

By goingUp
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Super.

By Charlie Jonas
Aug 17, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Definitely do this climb if you're in the area (and have a 70m with 15 draws). If you're tall like me, it may feel more 10a-ish. It finishes on a reachy overhung corner that could feel 10b/c if you're short or pumped out. The moves are really fun and the rock quality great.