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Persistence 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: [Leonard Coyne, 1977]
Page Views: 2,181
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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About seven bolts up the route.

Description 

This route is directly above the anchors on Hollow Flake. [Leonard Coyne in 1977. He led it with only a couple bolts and got bits of gear in the cracks. Very bold lead, considering it now sports 10 bolts. It's almost 120 feet from the belay on top of Hollow Flake to the anchors so plan on rappelling with 2 ropes or use a 70-meter cord. A third pitch, a short 5.9ish lead, goes over the headwall above past a bolt and then works up cracks to the summit.] From the top of hollow flake, clip the first bolt about 8 feet up. Continue up over a small overhang (protects well with a #3 TCU under it and another bolt on top) past 10 more bolts and a number of horizontal "ribs" to the anchors. Probably a little over-protected, some of the bolts are less than 6-8 feet apart. There is a bit of a runout on easy rock between the last bolt and the anchors. From the anchors, either rap back to the top of hollow flake with one rope, or continue to the top past a single bolt on the headwall above. Fun climb.


Protection 

12-13 draws, #3 TCU, and something for the anchor.



Photos of Persistence Slideshow Add Photo
Brenda raps down Persistence.
Brenda raps down Persistence.
Lee pulling through the roof.
Lee pulling through the roof.
Comments on Persistence Add Comment
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By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
May 17, 2004

This pitch is nice and sustained at the grade, with a great sense of exposure (especially if the wind is blowing). It doesn't look like a 50m rope would be long enough for the rappel back down to the top of Hollow Flake.

By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can you bust over the roof at the top? Difficulty?

By Larry Shaw
Sep 2, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this one the other day. fun moves over the roof, a little over bolted in spots 12 bolts maybe? fun way to finish hollow flake.

By Todd Miller
Jul 30, 2005

Guys,

This is NOT the sprout route. This route is called Persistence. I think Fred Dearborn or maybe Shmauser put it up in the 80's It originally had only the 2nd bolt. The Sprout Route, climbs the features angling up and left of persistence after turning the roof, and is still very serious.

Anyone know about the 5.9 route right of persistence? It's good but I dont know the name.

Todd

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The difficulty of Persistence is at least 5.9. The over bolting makes it a reasonably sane lead for someone just breaking above 5.8.

Regarding the "5.9-ish" 3rd pitch in the description of Persistence: The initial moves past the single bolt are way harder than 5.9. And once at a good stance about 12 feet higher, there remains a second series of hard-ish moves to get established at the awaiting hand-sized crack; suitable pro in 1/8" to 1/3" short parallel cracks will keep one off the deck for the second series of moves.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. Well protected for the beginning 5.8 leader. Bolt is perfectly placed to go over the small roof at the start. Rapped from the anchors at the top of the 1st pitch. Well worth climbing this route after Hollow Flake!

By Jordan Winters
From: Minturn, CO
Oct 6, 2011

The third pitch is burly and sketchy, definitely rated "R" and no way it's 5.9...for some reason I was carrying two Trango Ballnuts and was able to get decent placements at the second crux (after the bolt crux and below the nice hand jams). There was no other gear to be found until the bomber jams above.

By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Felt harder than Canine Rescue (10a, Turret Dome) to me. I thought it was a 5.9 move over the roof and then 10a moving up to clip 3rd bolt. Good footwork is key.