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Perplexity takes the black face past three bolts to a long, leaning obtuse corner just left of The Misunderstanding.
Climb up to the first bolt (welded coldshut) and perform a few cruxy moves up past the second bolt to a ledge and rest stance. Clip a third bolt (Swain homemade hanger), and traverse left and up easy rock to the base of the corner. Ascend this corner via thin locks and good face holds on the left wall. Bring your 00 TCUs and don't expect any fixed pins. Two single-rope raps down The Misunderstanding.
SR plus 2x 00 TCUs or equivalent gear. Brass can help too.
Oct 16, 2011
Bolts are shit on this one at the moment, good luck if you fall off. Hopefully I'll get them knocked out before too long.
Sep 22, 2012
Bolts are now not shit. All pro bolts replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. Enjoy this unusual route! It got the name for a reason...
As far as gear goes, Jerry's guide reccommendations are a little strange. bring at least 2 00 TCUs, 3 will get used, and the largest piece you'll need other than that is a .75 (single). No Z1/Z2 required, and the lack of pins is not a bad thing, where they were placed, they weren't going to hold much. Good tips cam placements abound. The rock on the upper fingers section is brittle, beware taking wingers on the featured rock after the beautiful tips section. Traverse right under the roof to finish on anchors of Misunderstanding, which are now good.
|By Patrick M.|
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 15, 2013
Just climbed it and the three bolts are now in perfect shape. Maybe they were replaced?
Feb 17, 2013
^^^This is funny to me.