||Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Nathan Brown, Tony Spainhour|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||fall, winter, spring|
|Page Views: ||3,381|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Nov 15, 2007|
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This is the first new route to be legally completed since the acquisition of LK by the CCC, hence the name. It roughly follows an old incomplete line for the first 1 1/2 pitches, dubbed "Green Eggs and Ham" (Jerry Roberts and company). It also merges into the illegally bolted and subsequently chopped route "Mirage" for about 80' on pitches 3-4.
For anyone interested in a historical note regarding the controversy: The CCC, not the FA party did the chopping of the Mirage bolts but somehow missed the 2 located at the beginning of the 4th pitch. We re-located the first one down a couple feet to provide better spacing as they were originally only about 3' apart, but left the 2nd one where it was. Regarding the merge at P-4: We were attempting to re-establish the upper section of Mirage as both a favor to a friend (at the time), and as the finish of our line - PG. However, when we arrived at the high point of Mirage it quickly became clear to us that we were mislead, and that Mirage had not actually been completed. The actual high point for Mirage was at the level of the 3rd bolt on P-4 - at the start of the sustained watergroove section.
Of special note: This route dries very quickly and is a good choice after a rain, even if the other grooves are waterfalls. The first pitches are friction slab, and avoid the potentially wet grooves. By the time that you make it to the grooves up higher, the sun has already had enough time to dry the wall off.
Start on the short right facing flake that is located between "Honeranger" and "Oasis".
P-1 Follow this to a line of 5 bolts, interspersed with a couple of gear placements, to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10+ 100'). Note: the fixed rp was removed and replaced with a bolt (with re-spacing) on 1/14/2014.
P-2 Step out right and follow the bolts up and leftward, then back up and right to the 2 bolt anchor (5.10 180').
P-3 Climb past 2 bolts up and rightward to the dark and more featured water streak. Get some thin gear (small RP and hybrid alien) and move up to another bolt. Continue up past more gear to a leftward traverse that leads to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9 130').
P-4 The Phantom-bolts pitch! (ask Wayne R where the name comes from...) Move right up the ramp and climb up past 2 bolts and then gear to a small sloping ledge at a bush. Get a good rest here, and then fire the sustained shallow watergroove above past 7 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a great ledge (5.10++/11a 180').
P-5 It is best to step up (via aiding off of anchor) to clip the first bolt before stepping back down and freeing the crux. Climb the very thin crux to a small flare (protects with smallest hybrid alien/TCU or the perfectly placed nut), and climb past another bolt and some gear to a funky transition into the watergroove above. Continue past 2 more bolts and possibly some hybrid friends to a 2 bolt anchor (solid 5.11, 150').
Either continue up and slightly right into the last 2 pitches of "Fathom", or rappel off.
Start in the short right facing flake that is located between "Honeranger" and "Oasis". There is a strange looking "X" in the rock where 2 quartz bands meet. "X" marks the spot.
Light rack, including RP's and a selection of hybrid aliens. Also possibly a few medium sized hybrid friends.
Jason leading the steep groove pitch.
Tony following the first section of pitch 4.
Jason starting the sustained shallow groove of p...
BETA PHOTO: Showing the route above pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: The upper portion of the route (P-3 thru P-5).
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Nov 30, 2007
Looks awesome...I may give it a whirl next time I'm in the area...when it gets warmer, probably next year, that is.
From: western NC
Dec 7, 2007
Thanks Ben. If you get a chance before it warms up, that'd be best. Winter is the prime season at LK... that wall is a solar panel.
By gneiss pirate
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A most memorable climb.
By Stephen F
Nov 23, 2010
Agreed, this is one of my favorite routes of all time. I scared myself silly by getting a bit off route on pitch 3. P4 may be the coolest pitch on the Knob and felt every bit of 11a to me. The move off of the belay on P5 blew my onsight, or, that is, my weak mind couldn't stop my weak body from grabbing the draw. Anyway, beautiful work Nathan, you are a route maestro.
May 27, 2012
A LK route of the highest quality! Varied climbing requiring many skill sets. Thanks Nate!