Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Permission Granite
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
Routes in Laurel Knob
|
|
'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
|
|
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 |
|
|
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Hostis Humani Generis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Mechanical Bull T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 |
|
|
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
O.K. Corral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Permission Granite T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Pipsissewa T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
|
|
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
|
|
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 R |
|
|
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Tony Spainhour |
| Page Views: | 2,232 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Nov 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2024
Details
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is the first new route to be legally completed since the acquisition of LK by the CCC, hence the name. It roughly follows an old incomplete line for the first 1 1/2 pitches, dubbed "Green Eggs and Ham" (Jerry Roberts and company). It also merges into the illegally bolted and subsequently chopped (not by us) route "Mirage" for about 80' on pitches 3-4.
Of special note: This route dries very quickly and is a good choice after a rain, even if the other grooves are waterfalls. The first pitches are friction slab, and avoid the potentially wet grooves. By the time that you make it to the grooves up higher, the sun has already had enough time to dry the wall off.
Start on the short right facing flake that is located between "Honeranger" and "Oasis".
P-1 Follow this to a line of 5 bolts, interspersed with a couple of gear placements, to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10+ 100'). Note: the fixed rp was removed and replaced with a bolt (with re-spacing) on 1/14/2014.
P-2 Step out right and follow the bolts up and leftward, then back up and right to the 2 bolt anchor (5.10 180').
P-3 Climb past 2 bolts up and rightward to the dark and more featured water streak. Get some thin gear (small RP and hybrid alien) and move up to another bolt. Continue up past more gear to a leftward traverse that leads to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9 130').
P-4 The Phantom-bolts pitch! (ask Wayne R where the name comes from...) Move right up the ramp and climb up past 2 bolts and then gear to a small sloping ledge at a bush. Get a good rest here, and then fire the sustained shallow watergroove above past 7 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a great ledge (5.10++/11a 180').
P-5 It is best to step up (via aiding off of anchor) to clip the first bolt before stepping back down and freeing the crux. Climb the very thin crux to a small flare (protects with smallest hybrid alien/TCU or the perfectly placed nut), and climb past another bolt and some gear to a funky transition into the watergroove above. Continue past 2 more bolts and possibly some hybrid friends to a 2 bolt anchor (solid 5.11, 150').
Either continue up and slightly right into the last 2 pitches of "Fathom", or rappel off.
For anyone interested in a historical note regarding the controversy: The CCC, not the FA party, did the chopping of the Mirage bolts but somehow missed the two located at the beginning of the 4th pitch. We re-located the first one down a couple feet to provide better spacing as they were originally only about 3' apart, but left the second one where it was.
Photos
4 Comments