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Permadraw on City Slickers?
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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Hello All,

Primo Wall> City Slickers (11d/12a):

The last bolt is on the lip and blind until you step up and reach over the lip. IMO, this route could be much more fun and safe if a permadraw were hung on this bolt in order to give the option of safely seeing the clip and clipping from the bomber pocket...

Shall I hang this, or is this just me being a wuss?

Let it begin...
-Jon

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 19, 2012
At the BRC
I'd say it's not needed.
Not that you need anybody's permission to hang it.

FLAG
By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 19, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Not familiar with the route at all, but if you do hang a fixed draw, do it right; use a steel biner, which will not wear down onto sharp edges as much. Of course, if you do this you'll be spending more money, so you may as well put something more permanent like a quicklink, chain, or a climbtech permadraw, so that some fuckwit does not take off with it.

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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
I definitely don't think it's absolutely needed, but I've seen a lot of folks struggle at that clip and a fall while clipping could be super dangerous given the decking potential.

And if I decide to do it, i would definitely use chains wrapped in a canvas casing (it would sit over an edge of rock, so the climbtech draw would likely get eaten through and the canvas over the chain should protect the rock edge from the chains). Steel for sure. If you're going to bother with something like that, you might as well do it right. Right?

Does anyone see any issues with doing it this way? Like i said, the bolt sits on the ledge facing upwards, so the chain would lay over that 100ish degree lip. Not really asking for permission (it's CCC, I believe it's even open bolting there), just wanted opinions. I've never perma-ed anything, and don't want to get the stink eye every time I go to Primo.

Thanks

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By j gatchalian
From denver, co
Sep 19, 2012
little twin owls area, lumpy ridge.  with arms wid...
i'll preface this by saying ultimately, it doesn't truly matter to me if a permadraw gets placed. but if i had to pick one side or the other, i would vote against having it there, only based on the fact that i have never heard of anyone decking or getting injured by blowing that clip. perhaps it has happened in the past, i definitely can't say that i know all that has gone down in that canyon.

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By Chris Vinson
Sep 19, 2012
we're with gatch on this one.

thanks for thinking of us though!

sounds like you might want to contact the equipper and see what they think?

-CT

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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
I think I'll just leave it alone for now. If the urge ever crosses me again, I'll see what Ramin thinks.

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

FLAG


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