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P1 is a bit crappy (5.10); Start behind the tower, clip two bolts (currently no hangers—pulled because this is a bit of a dodgy lead) and head up towards the white dihedral left of the roof. Belay on the ledge just left of the roof.Circum pitch 1 is a better choice to start, and if you use the Circum start, the route is three stars. P2. Head up the splitter and enter a huge chimney. A nice OW splits the left wall. George, Josh
Start behind Red Tail Tower.
Two new style fours (or old 3.5s), a 5, and a 6 useful for the OW. Otherwise, a rack of doubles to #3 and some nuts.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The original first 20' of sketchy choss I climbed to start this climb was trundled. Thus the deal with bolts being later added, then considered "not worth it", compared to the next crack left. If anyone wants to fix this in some way, I don't care what you do. (It might be okay enough to be worth another look.)