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Periodontal Fracture
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
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Routes in The Teeth
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Cavities TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Periodontal Fracture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Root Canal S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Chad Suchoski |
| Page Views: | 3,466 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Mar 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This crack varies from hands to fists and hosts some great hand jamming and is sustained from the start until you clip the anchors. The crack is solid as bay area sandstone gets but the rock on the outside of the crack is a bit loose. So looking for foot and hand holds outside of the crack is not a real great option. Watch for Poison oak at the base. It has been wiped out several times but comes back every few years.
Location
Its an obvious crack on the lowest tier facing downhill. You can spot it form the bottom of the canyon if you know where to look. If you want to top rope it, climb around the back on the right side pulling a move over a large chock stone. Careful this chockstone is loose but I doubt anyone could physically pull it out. You'll find two ring anchors at the top.
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