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Periodization & Hangboard loss between cycles
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By Arnold Braker
From golden, co
Aug 19, 2011

Mike Anderson wrote:
When they are ready to progress to the next level, what changes about the route? Do they pick a route with the same size holds but 5-10 degrees steeper? If so, they should train with the same holds but more load. In reality, I don't think this option exists for most people. Instead, I would argue that as people progress up to harder routes, they continue to climb at the same crags, so the routes will have similar angles, but the holds will get smaller and further apart (or facing the "wrong" way) and rests may become less frequent. If that is the case, it makes sense to move to smaller and smaller holds for fingerboard training as you improve as a climber.


I probably don't have a good understanding of the biomechanics of exactly what enables you to crimp a tiny edge, but I have been living with the idea that crimping an edge with added weight was the equivalent of making it smaller. Is this false?


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