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4. The Perfect Wave
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Perfect Wave 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude November 1980
Page Views: 813
Submitted By: j.yager on Aug 18, 2010

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Description 

pitch 1: Make your way to the belay ledge w/small birch tree. 5.4, 40ft.
pitch 2: Move up and right towards two well placed, but hard to find bolts (drilled by hand on the lead). Bolts protect the crux, then layback from vertical flakes to fixed slings. 5.7
pitch 3: Run it out to the anchor or trees.

Location 

Ford the Swift river and cut into the woods to the Nanamocomuck ski trail. Find a small wooden sign with mileages marked on it. From here, turn north into the woods...

bring two ropes for the descent rappel

Protection 

small to medium gear,
bolts protect face moves on 2nd pitch,
fixed slings, chains at the top


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By Robert Hall
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you have a 70m rope, a neat "trick" is to set up the 2nd pitch anchor as a top rope and then lower down Tsunami all the way to the belay ledge for Tsunami and Cruse Control. The second then follows up Perfect Wave and also lowers down Tsunami. You can then pull the rope to lead, or TR Tsunami.
ps- With 60m ropes I don't think anyone now actually belays at the slung flake at the top of the listed 2nd pitch, but goes to the top and the double bolt anchor on the left.