|The Brick Wall
The 10c variation starts at the base of the bowl on the left side. It's an interesting smear problem, especially going over the top over the bowl. Approach the ledge via the crack pointing up at the triangular shaped roof. Move left and crank up the bulge (crux). Move up and right. Just below the nice ledge, you can move out to Living on the Edge (the face) for some more challenging moves. Otherwise, follow the crack up and left in the dihedral.
60m rope recommended.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 15, 2003
This is a really fun route, well worth 2 stars. There are three distinct sections of difficulty:
1) A bouldery, bulge above the initial ramp. The gear is a bit tricky, but the stance below this section is fairly good, so take your time to get in a good nut or small cam before committing to the moves
2) Once above the bulge you enter a short but fun finger and hands left facing corner with greasy feet. Plenty of places for good gear and a good rest stance once above the difficulties. This rest is useful for
3) A right angling thin hands crack takes you over the lip to the top of the Brick Wall. Once over the lip, traversing 20 feet or so takes you to some chains to lower off from. You can also top rope an 11ish face climb going up the middle of the Brick Wall from these anchors.. Please use your own slings off of the anchors while top-roping to avoid unecessary wear
The cruxes are short but all very different and at about the same grade. Definitely a fun pitch after work....
If other Boulder Canyon climbs like Curvin Crack and Classic Finger Crack get three stars, I would certainly give this route at least two stars. The reasons:
-The route is longer than the above mentioned climbs and has three distinct cruxes (a bouldery, bulge start, a finger crack corner with greasy feet, and a thin hands roof to finish)
-Short approach if you decide not to belay from the car
-Can easily top rope the 11 face climb once you finish The Perfect Route.
So... If stars are supposed to convey to people the quality of the route and "climbing experience", I would recommend adding some stars to this route