Perfect Hands All the Way
5.11+ C2 R
|759 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 150 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11+ C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Ben Lepesant , Dave Brown|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||BenL on Apr 14, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: West Face of North Six Shooter. Climb the crack ri...
Start up the Shadows route, continue up the crack after the offwidth instead of going left. belay under a squeeze chimney. Climb up the squeeze chimney, then a thin hands and off fingers crack trough a sandy pot until the crack gets very thin. A hard face move leads up to a ledge.(5.11+) Rotten rock here, climb up a little to place very good pro, nr 4 cam, and down a little to a handtraverse on small crimps to the right.(5.10+) No good pro in a sandy seem, quite tricky move up(5.11-R), into the next seem. Crucial red C3, bad and in very soft rock. 1 pt of aid, probably goes free too at 5.12, but really soft rock.
Locking off the C3 permits to place a decent .4 cam, another point of aid and you can crawl onto a ledge on the south face. Pull some rope and climb up to the summit (5.7).
The first part may have been climbed before.
West Face of NSS
Camalots 0.4 - 4 3 each .4-2 1 each 3 and 4
green&yellow alien, red C3
lots of long slings, or better 2 ropes