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The 4th line of bolts from the right. This touchy climb starts right at a tree, and just off of a left trending weakness. Utilizing sidepulls on this weakness and thin moves towards the bolt will get it clipped. Have a good a spotter (I had 2 and needed both of them) because the 1st clip is tough. The climbing stays tough until you reach the ledge. It then eases up to an almost ridiculous 5.6 level. I was tempted to give it 1 star for this easy section, but the bottom is great and the 5.6 climbing is still fun. The anchors are shared with Iron Curtain.
8 draws for the route and 2 more for the anchors.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I felt like the climbing to the first bolt was 5.8; however, getting the second clip is sketchy. The climbing is consistently difficult from the first bolt until the fourth bolt, the crux (for me) was around the third bolt. I think that if I were a foot taller, this route would have been 5.9. As with a lot of other routes on this wall, most of the bolts are spinners. This route was a fun challenge, and I hope to redpoint it next time.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Whoever put a quicklink on the 1st bolt should have refrained from doing so, or put it on the 2nd bolt where it's useful! I can reach the 1st bolt with my elbow, I'm 4" away from the second regardless of where my feet are. Go figure...
3 cruxes on this route: get to the ledge, mantel the ledge (no hands), clip the 3rd bolt (long move, small crimps, no feet). Bring strong tendons.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
I agree, the rap biner is very unnecessary. There is no need to alter this route, except MAYBE to replace the spinners.
This is one of my favorites routes at the crag. A classic for sure. I'm giving it a PG-13--because there are a couple spots before the third bolt, that if you fall you could get hurt. Have a good belay on this one.
|By Ryan Peterson|
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 2, 2007
Most bolts up higher are spinners. Bring a crash pad for the first two bolts, getting that second bolt was the hardest part I thought.
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Really fun climb on this wall -- my favorite of the bunch. First couple of clips are easier with a long wingspan, or good balance: I could reach it with no hands. Fun facey climbing with some bail-out ledges with great balancey mantles -- Classic!
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Fun cruxes, but I need to do it again for the red point :(
The first crux is between the first bolt and the ledge. The second is coming off the ledge to the 4th bolt. After that it is cake (but still really fun).
I hear people saying 5.10a, but it felt at least 5.10d to me. It could be because of my height (5' 6"). I took a lot of falls going for the second bolt but eventually figured it out. The second crux I got with one fall, but it was a hard move and long reach for sure.
I'm giving it a 5.10c/d, because that is what I felt. I took a lot of falls on the first crux. I came close to decking on a couple, but I never did (I had a good belay). I'd say it's PG-13, because you can easily take a 15' fall to the deck if your belayer isn't doing a good job.
|By Tyler N|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Fantastic route! As with every other route on this wall, I wish the first bolt was a little lower, since the lower sections on most of these routes are the thinnest parts. From the first to the second bolt is a great balancey crux up to the ledge, and then a crazy mantle onto the ledge followed by awkward high feet to reach the next bolt. After that, unfortunately easy climbing.
Favorite route on the wall.