Perelandra 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Larry Bruce and Dan McClure, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | justin dubois on Apr 9, 2003 |
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First pitch of 10a, Perelandra.
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Perelandra resides in the same alcove as super-classics Fat City, Howling at the Wind, Corner Pump Station, etc. Start as for Howling ,but climb the pretty, thin finger crack out left (10a), to a stance below a flake. Layback the flake to a stance up under a roof/corner, next to some slings. Get some good stuff in and turn the corner (crux) right and up into the Howling corner with some spooky, good moves.
Protection Rack to a #3 Camalot, long slings.
Trying to find the key to the reach around?
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The belay above the crux.
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Nearing the end of the difficulties on P1 (not cou...
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Fat City Crack climbs the rounded crack left of Ch...
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P2 of Peralandra follows the left side of the hang...
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Colin Simon working the heady crux of Perelandra o...
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By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
May 20, 2003
rating: 5.11a PG13
| Particularly stellar route! Lower finger crack is tricky to get good gear, but gear can be had. Lots of small nuts, RPs and Aliens are the ticket for sewing this up. Thoughtful 10a that eases up as you get about 75 feet off the deck. Cheesy sling anchor loops live on top of a large flake (throw on your own and back up this UV graveyard) just prior to the 11a roof busting traverse. For me the roof is very committing and so are the spicy moves up into the 10b dihedral!. As usual the Rossiter book for this climb and the Lumpy Area is on the money, I love his topos, nobody seems to come close to that level of accuracy and detail. |
By Stephan Greenway
May 21, 2003
| This is a truly great route, but the second pitch has seen a few falls that have resulted in injuries.
I think the first pitch is a wonderful 5.10. If you want to skip the upper pitches you can traverse left and gain the first belay on Fat City and rap off. This little traverse can be a little exciting, and it is always a relief to get your hands into the Fat City Crack! |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2004
| I agree with Stephan that P1 is great. Continuous insecure moves with the occasional good jam or foothold to relax on. Lots of good gear with small cams, nuts, and a couple of micro nuts. There appears to be no fixed anchor at the top of P1, so you will want to (you may not really want to) traverse left to the Fat City bolts. This traverse is very intimidating for leader and second, although leading or following you can have a diagonal toprope. The traverse felt like the crux. Start with a reasonable foothold, switch feet and step down a bit onto an unreasonable and barely visible foothold. Switch feet and step down onto very steep friction feet with fingernail crimpers for false security. Eventually grab the non-crack and pull into it. |
By Nate A
Aug 6, 2005
| Alan, are you wearing cut off, [Daisy Duke] shorts in the photo at the belay above the crux below, and if you are do they require special underwear? |
By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.11a PG13
| Why yes, those are my Daisy Dukes, very observant. My zebra-striped lycra pants were at the cleaners, much to my dismay. It's fashion first, Nate! |
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