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> Upper Sense of…
> Mileski Wall
Peregrinos
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in The Mileski Wall
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Chutes and Ladders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gilberto and His Donkey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Incredible Hand Crack of the Potrero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Mono de Dios S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Little Elvis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mother Superior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Big S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Peregrinos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Peregrinos -- 1st Pitch S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Permanent Vacation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pope On A Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rain of Gold S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rest Day Alla Pagoda S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Roman Holiday S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Shakti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Weeping Jesus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 1300 ft (394 m), 14 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Flynn, Daniel Trujillo 2015-2018. P2 FFA Damaris Jaramillo, Nicolas Navarrete |
| Page Views: | 1,290 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Flynn on Jan 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Description
Steep crack climbing and technical face climbing mulitpitch, following a natural line on the left side of the Mileski wall. This and Devotion are the only routes that goes to the top of this wall.
70m rope mandatory. Can link 3+4, and 13+14.
Please try it, and leave feedback here! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.
P1 5.11
Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.
P2 5.12/+
Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.
P3 5.11
Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun stuff to the belay. 34m, 13 bolts.
P4 5.7
Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.
P5 5.10
Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts
P6 5.11+
Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts
P7 5.11
Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.
P8 5.10+
Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.
P9 5.10
Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.
P10 5.10+
Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.
P11 5.10
Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.
P12 5.10+
Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.
P13 5.11
Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.
P14 5.10
To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.
70m rope mandatory. Can link 3+4, and 13+14.
Please try it, and leave feedback here! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.
P1 5.11
Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.
P2 5.12/+
Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.
P3 5.11
Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun stuff to the belay. 34m, 13 bolts.
P4 5.7
Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.
P5 5.10
Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts
P6 5.11+
Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts
P7 5.11
Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.
P8 5.10+
Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.
P9 5.10
Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.
P10 5.10+
Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.
P11 5.10
Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.
P12 5.10+
Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.
P13 5.11
Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.
P14 5.10
To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.
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