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 ADVANCED
Swan Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Route T 
Bay Tree Crack T 
Bobcat Crack T,TR 
Claude's Delight T 
Grant's Crack T,TR 
Hanging Flake T 
Lena's Lieback T 
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 
Oak Tree Flake T 
Penelope's Problem T 
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 
Pin Scar Seams T 
Swan Slab Chimney T 
Swan Slab Gully T 
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 
Ugly Duckling T 
Unknown Arete T,TR 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 
Unnamed Face Route TR 
Unnamed Seam TR 
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 
V-Crack T,TR 
West Slabs TR 

Penthouse Cracks 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 18'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,868
Submitted By: Will S on May 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta Pic.

Description 

These four short cracks on the far left end of Swan Slab make ok solos/highballs or TRs in a variety of styles. You can toprope them all from a single anchor by scrambling up from the left. The cracks are rated (from L to R), 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.8. Crux on the .11a is a bouldery move right off the deck to gain an easier crack, easier for tall people.

Location 

On the far left end of Swan Slab, starting off a large flat ledge about 15' off the ground. You can walk up to the ledge from the left. If soloing, when the cracks end traverse the horizontal break to the right past the 5.8 flake to gain a 5.5 face downclimb.

Protection 

TR or Solo.


Photos of Penthouse Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
The 5.10 a fingers and hands crack left-middle on ...
BETA PHOTO: The 5.10 a fingers and hands crack left-middle on ...
Looking up at the cracks from the left end of Swan...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the cracks from the left end of Swan...
The 5.8 Flake on the right side of the Penthouse c...
BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 Flake on the right side of the Penthouse c...
This is what the top of the Penthouse Cracks looks...
BETA PHOTO: This is what the top of the Penthouse Cracks looks...

Comments on Penthouse Cracks Add Comment
Show which comments
By -Ty-
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 1, 2007

Watch out for bears. No kidding. We had one steal our food while we were no more than 15 feet away from our packs.

The walk-off/top-rope approach is decently gnarly. I would avoid it.
By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

For beginner climbers, setting up top rope for the first time was kind of scary. You climb around the rock to the left, maybe 5.1, you could go up with no protection if you feel secure enough. Once up there, we tied ourselves around a tree and then set up the tope rope. There are two rings so you can just slide your rope through them, and then when you are finished, you can rappell down and don't have to climb up again.

The 5.8 route was a lot of fun for practicing jamming and using fists. It's short, but fun. Very nice spot.
By Kyle Napierkowski
Apr 26, 2013

Cool little ledge to chill and toprope on a sunny early season day. Each of the cracks requires slightly different technique. Should be easy enough for new climbers to have a good time.

Echoing above comment that the approach required some 5th class moves. Definitely be ready to rap after setting an anchor, downclimbing the approach would be tricky
By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Don't use the rap rings to TR, as Eve suggests...on any climb, for that matter.