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Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pe...
|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with a few slightly larger pods in it. This leads to another small ledge. Above the ledge, the crack turns to a thinning left facing dihedral (mostly .75 Camalot). Catch your breath at the ledge and motor for the anchors. This climb is freaking awesome - varied and challenging.
Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots. Some 2 and 2.5 Friends would also work. Also bring 2 or 3 #2 Camalots/3 Friends and the same goes for .75 Camalots/1.75 Friends. For the very top, you can place a couple pieces in the .5 Camalot range. You will need 2 ropes to rappel as this pitch is somewhere around 125 ft.
Tony jammin on the beautiful Pente splitter
The totally bitchin thin hands start to the totall...
BETA PHOTO: The towering Pente. Mamacita!
Jon Tashkin beginning the journey.
Geared-up for the long haul (thin hands start).
The classic thin hands - hands splitter. Fingers f...
A slightly different angle. Joseffa Meir leads 'Pe...
Tony Bubb gets a no-hands rest with the leg stuffe...
Tony Bubb on the final moves of 'Pente (5.11-)'. P...
The awesome thin hands splitter of Pente.
Start of the slabby left-facing corner.
BETA PHOTO: Pente with a view
BETA PHOTO: Pente (5.11), a grand perspective.
Thin hands splitter - so good
Smack in the middle of the hands splitter on Pente...
Andy Hansen gives Pente a go on his second day cli...
Andy Hansen places a #2 in the thin hands st...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2002
Me and My 70 M rope say that this pitch is closer to 155' long. You'd need a 100M of cord to get off of it!
The thin section up top is not hard, but you are soooo pumped, so lay-backing is difficult.
|By Josh Beck|
May 1, 2004
Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Apr 13, 2006
Does anyone know exactly when the block at the base collapsed? Yikes.
|By Rob Kepley|
Oct 15, 2006
What a stunning line. If you like #1 Camalot size cracks, then jump on this one. It just keeps on going...
Sep 18, 2007
This Route Is sweeet!! #1s are usually pretty tough for me. I found that I just push through the thin stuff and every ten feet or so there seemed to be a GOOD hand jam.
For me the start was kind of awkward and, also when the steepness eases off and the crack thins for the final stratch to the anchors.
Not hard but your pumped and it seems your feet mey slip on the sandy-ish rock.
Sep 27, 2007
Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots
Indian Creek virgin on the east coast here... what constitutes a "heaping helping"?
Oct 19, 2007
Pente is one of the finest crack routes I've climbed. Of course, the splitter is classic, but the left-facing corner above really gives the route its full value!
Take advantage of any rests you may find.
The gear recommendation in the new Bloom book is good. However, for peace-of-mind, one might consider taking an additional #2, #2.5, and/or #3.5 Friend(s).
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007
The route is loooong. My hands are average sized (not small) and this route is perfect hands for peeps with small hands. Nonetheless it was quite enjoyable and sustained for the long face splitter. Some rests here and there to help. Then the 2nd half is the layback (for me). Good rests is the 2nd half. TR'ed this and its my fav 5.11 at the creek.
|By Clay Rardon|
From: Morgantown, WV
Feb 17, 2008
This has to be my favorite pitch of crack anywhere. End of story.
(Bring two ropes, a 70m doesn't cut it)
|By Bart Paull|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2008
This is hands down one of the best routes at the creek, especially in the 5.11 grade. Pretty much a hike if you know how to hand jam, the top part of the route is a bit of a sting in the tail though ... Don't make the mistake of taping for this route if you have bigger hands!
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008
70 won't come close to cutting it on this 160' route. Seriously this could be the best crack climb ever. As many stars as possible. It would have been wortj driving out to the creek just for this route.
6 yellow, 7 red, 3 green and 2 purple camalot shoud work (plus one draw & 1 shoulder sling).
|By Courtney Pace|
Mar 18, 2010
Don't forget the .75's. At least 3 or 4. Save some juice for the end, it gets pretty spicy!
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 3, 2011
The is the best single pitch of rock climbing I have ever lead. First ever 11 trad I have gone for and the most pumped I have ever been. And the first trad whip over say 6 feet and guess what my red Camelot held. The start is hard and the huge splitter is long. The finger Corner is low agle and at that poiy I was so pumped placing gear was impossible. So if it's ur first 11 at the creek take like 8 red 2 gold and 2 .75 camelots and run out the las 30 feet to the good hand jam to clip the anchors.
|By Brian Stevens|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2012
Climbed this a few days ago and sand started flowing down the crack from the top of the first big ledge and coming out at the bottom. The sand was essentially flowing out of the crack for 2 minutes non-stop. Has this ever happened to anyone before? Definitely freaked me out a bit...